Hey folks,

I just did a transplant of boards into a new backbox for the F-14 and now I'm blowing the 4A slo-blow on the flipper board whenever I touch the flippers.  Now I've also notices that a bunch of the fuses arent labeled and I cant find any specific information that states the fuses and their location so I wanted to ask any of those past or present F-14 owners about all the fuses that arent on boards what the respective ratings are?

Thanks very much

also if you have any thoughts on why the fuse might be blowing please fire away..I'll be working my way to Marvin's various tests as well.  I've checked the EOS switches and they look fine.  I filed them up and wiped them up with a business card but it still blows the fuse as soon as you touch it.

A slight addition to this as well

Where do people get their fuses? and is there a place were you can get a decent fuse package? With like 40-50 of the common fuses?

Thanks folks

The guy who is suddenly going through a lot of fuses

The best time to order fuses is when you order other electronic components.  I usually get that stuff from greatplainselectronic.com

There's also digikey.ca but you need to buy about 30$ of stuff to avoid an additional handling charge of 8$.

I usually get:
Slow-blow: 3, 4, 5, 7, 8 A
Fast acting:0.25, 0.50, 1 ,2, 4, 5, 10 A

If you're REALLY stuck you can go to Radio Shack and pay triple the price.  In Ottawa there's also Active and Gervais Electronics.

Mike

Hey MrMikeman,

Thanks for the heads up I've usually just picked up what I needed through The Source which as you say is triple the price.  So I'm going to order some from great plains ( great link thanks ).

So back on the F-14 front....

I've noticed one interesting thing in that only the left flipper causes the fuse to blow and not the right at all.  I checked the EOS switches again and they are ok.  I did try measuring the resistance across the flipper lugs and on the right I get the 4 ohm than 160 ohm values ( which the EOS switch is closed ) but on the left I get 0 ohms and 160 ohms respectively.  Marvin's site says that the coil is probably toast so I just wanted to concur with anyone out there that the coil should just be replaced.

Thanks a great deal folks

Disconnect the wires to the left flipper coil, and confirm the short still exists,
to prove that the short originates from the coil itself and not upstream
from the wiring.

If the short still exists on the coil itself connected to nothing,
then it probably is a shorted diode across the coil, or it was installed backwards,
or the wiring to the coil was connected backwards, if the coil itself looks fine and
not burned.

Good luck!
Cheers,
- Sylvain

Thanks Sylvain, I'll give that a shot!