While installing my winter tires over the week-end,
I ran into a problem with one of the security-lock lug-nuts.
(...these are the ones that need the specially-fitted
adapter to remove )

Unfortunately, the lug-nut was somewhat seized,
so when I applied a bit more pressure,
the nut actually shattered, leaving me with shards
of metal and a half-missing lugnut.

The few tire shops I've called have a 2 week backlog of work
and are scheduling for the 2nd week in December.

I was wondering if anyone had one of the Lug-nut removal kits,
or any advice as to how to get this sucker off.

LMK,
Thanks,
Steph

If it is the nut that is partially broken, one way is to weld a regular nut onto it and get it off. Or:

- use an extractor kit

- break the rest of it off if you can, but you might/will damage the stud

- use a special pair of pliers called stud removers. They look like adjustable pliers but have special jaws that look like a bird's beak. They are curved so that when you push down on them, they bite more. They are made to remove any studs and stripped nuts. You might need to put a pipe on the end for extra torque, but they work. I have a pair... still use them today.



Rules of thumb (useless now, but in case you get it off):

- always tighten/loosen these types of nuts with the wheel and nut at room temperature... they get brittle with the cold

- always apply anti-seize compound to the threads on the wheel studs. JUST A BIT... no need to slather it on. You don't want any to end up between the nut and wheel rim.

samething happened to me a while ago.

had to use a grinder to make the nut gripable.


LESSON LEARNED:  REMOVE THOSE PIECES OF CRAP FROM YOUR TIRES IF YOU ARE USING THEM NOW!!

Quoted from Sparky

If it is the nut that is partially broken, one way is to weld a regular nut onto it and get it off.

I don't have welding gear...

Quoted from Sparky

- use an extractor kit

I would if I could find one locally..
...and they don't look cheap  ($50 on-line)

Quoted from Sparky

- break the rest of it off if you can, but you might/will damage the stud

Messy and dangerous.  I'm really not looking to try this...

Quoted from Sparky

- use a special pair of pliers called stud removers. They look like adjustable pliers but have special jaws that look like a bird's beak. They are curved so that when you push down on them, they bite more. They are made to remove any studs and stripped nuts. You might need to put a pipe on the end for extra torque, but they work. I have a pair... still use them today.

I'm actually driving down to MTL next Saturday.
I can't stay for the "informal" party, but if using your pliers is quick and easy,
I might try to stop by for "quickie"  !  

I'll keep you posted.

Later,
Steph

I would  hammer an old socket over it.then use heat.watch you face with that pipe if using for torque.by doing this i took 5 stiches in the nose when the pipe slipped off.   good luck

Quoted from hardkor

I would  hammer an old socket over it.then use heat.watch you face with that pipe if using for torque.by doing this i took 5 stiches in the nose when the pipe slipped off.

Gee...  sounds like great plan !    

Although I think I prefer something that won't cause any facial lacerations !


Steph

Quoted from Steph

I'm actually driving down to MTL next Saturday.
I can't stay for the "informal" party, but if using your pliers is quick and easy,
I might try to stop by for "quickie"  !  

I'll keep you posted.

Later,
Steph

I can do it if you come by... I can try the pliers, and maybe a little heat with a torch.

The other thing that really kills those wheel locks is over-tightening them. If it was a huge struggle to get them off, they were probably way too tight to start with. Most of the light trucks and passenger cars on the road don't require the wheel nuts to be any more than 100ft/lb tight. Sounds like a lot, but it's not really.

Quoted from Grauwulf

The other thing that really kills those wheel locks is over-tightening them. If it was a huge struggle to get them off, they were probably way too tight to start with. Most of the light trucks and passenger cars on the road don't require the wheel nuts to be any more than 100ft/lb tight. Sounds like a lot, but it's not really.

True... even most garages don't know what the heck a torque wrench is...

I work in a heavy truck shop, not properly tightening the wheels with a torque wrench is *not* an option for us. I had a truck in Friday that one of the front wheels was just about to come off, 3 out of 6 lugnuts were finger tight and the other three weren't much more.  

Back on topic though, the pound the regular socket on the broken locknut usually works well.

When was the last time you saw the oil change/tire kid with anything other than the air powered impact wrench in his hands?

Quoted from MarkToo

When was the last time you saw the oil change/tire kid with anything other than the air powered impact wrench in his hands?

agreed, however... there are extensions used that limit the amount of torque that the gun applies. They are colour coded most of the time.