Well, I blew a fuse on my Scared Stiff. The one located in the cabinet power-supply near the coin door. It is marked "T 4 A L 250V". It is a very short fuse compared to the other ones I have seen. So my question is where (preferably in Ottawa) can I find a replacement?

I guess another related question would be: Is this indicitive of a looming problem or just an old tired fuse reaching it's end-of-life? It happened when I powered the game on last night. The game has always worked extremely well and has never shown any signs of problems.

Thanks for the help.

Sounds like the AC line fuse, and if it blows it's usually a sign something is shorted down stream.  I don't have too much experiance with WPC-95, but I would test all the diodes on the driver before installing a new fuse.  (fuses don't get 'tired' like a cap would)

Oh, and that fuse shouldn't be hard to find.  I believe all the WPC-95 fuses are the same size. (smaller than WPC)

D

Tom

The reason I have no idea (bow to other members better at electronics) but supply wise - you can get all these fuses at Gervais electronics in the east end for sure and most likely Active Electronics on Merivale. I've bought the larger usual ones at Active just never looked for the smaller ones there. Gervais, if you walk in with the fuse they'll match it right away for you. Can't beat their service and knowledge. I'd offer you one but I only have the large ones on hand sorry.

ME

This is a mini European or 5mm type fuse.  It is Timed or Slow 4A.

Fuses don't get tired, but they do get really old sometimes.  Although this one is not subject to intense heat like say those near the GI Diodes (which I have seen a batch just burn their filament due to the heat), it could have just died due to old age (I have seen it happen).  Just check that there are no burnt/brown connectors near the Transformer harness at cabinet bottom (hence something that perhaps did put some strain on the circuitry....

these are 8 amp in wpc ... I don't have a wpc95 manual but I'm betting it should also be 8 amp ?

Thanks for the info everyone. Hopefully, I will get a replacement one evening this week and be back in business.

Tom.

Quoted from Mrhide

these are 8 amp in wpc ... I don't have a wpc95 manual but I'm betting it should also be 8 amp ?

Phil, you would be correct!  For 110VAC line it should be an 8Amp fuse, only 240VAC line should it be a 4Amp fuse.  There probably isn't any issue down stream, it just had the wrong line fuse installed to begin with.

D

No, actually the correct fuse for a WPC-95 is is Timed 5A (for 115v) and 4A (for 220v) and so buy a Slow Blow (Timed) 5A for that.

This particular SS pin is a re-import. The sticker on the power-supply states that the correct fues is a "T 4 A L 250V" which was the type in the fuse holder. I suspect this game was converted when it was re-imported.

The game was very well maintained - no visible signs of hacks or anything.

Based upon this information I think I will go with the "T 4 A L 250V" type fuse listed on the power-supply... unless those more knowledgeable than me can confirm that this fuse type should have changed once it was coverted.

Quoted from tom_454

This particular SS pin is a re-import. The sticker on the power-supply states that the correct fues is a "T 4 A L 250V" which was the type in the fuse holder. I suspect this game was converted when it was re-imported.

The game was very well maintained - no visible signs of hacks or anything.

Based upon this information I think I will go with the "T 4 A L 250V" type fuse listed on the power-supply... unless those more knowledgeable than me can confirm that this fuse type should have changed once it was coverted.

that fuse was for 220 VAC , as discussed in earlier post you should put an 8Amp for the 120Vac !!!! otherwise it's gonna blow again and again !!!!

don't trust anyone mister mulder! get the manual and check !! you'll find this :  ( which says, 8 amp )

Gee, I have an original WPC95 manual.  And see attached screen shot from a download of the Scared Stiff manual....Where did you get that picture from?  You guys decide.  Perhaps a fellow member with the same machine or WPC95 can pull the fuse in his/her machine to check....

looks like we're both right !! I took it from the same manual ( page 2-33 ) ... so looks like someone with the game, PULL THE FUSE AND LET US KNOW WHAT THE HELL WORKS !

I'll look when I get home from work. My game is NOT a re-import.

I'm betting it's going to be an 8amp.

Dan

Rule of thumb....

If the fuse rating is 'X' Amp @ 220VAC, you double it for 110VAC.  Doesn't matter if the game is WPC or WPC95, or if the damn thing is a vacuum cleaner.

Doug

The doubling theory sounds correct. Is it in line with what is done to convert a WPC-95 pin from foreign to domestic? I really don't know how you do the conversion, I was under the impression that it is just a matter of changing the jumpers on the plugs. So is it just a simple matter, that the person who did the conversion forgot to change the fuse?

I don't want to fry anything by putting in the incorrect fuse. I am going to have to go back (in time) and revisit V=IR. 20 years ago I used to know this stuff.

Dan, if you could check your fuse value that would be great. Thanks.

Tom.

My game has a 5 Amp fuse. The manual that came with my game states that the 4 amp is for export and the 5 amp is for domestic.

I hope this helps. I would have lost the bet.

Dan

DOH!!  

Thanks everyone. You are all helping me become more educated on this matter. However, as with every good student; every answer creates another question.  

So I picked up a box of fuses today from "Active Components". Had to buy a variety box (everything from .1A - 5A) to get the ones I wanted.

Question 1): These fuses are all marked similar to this "F4 AL 250V LAC", however, the one pulled from my pin is marked "T 4 A L 250V". What is the LAC stand for? Are these the same fuses?

Question 2): I am going to replace the 4A (foreign) with the 5A (domestic) as suggested. Any potential harm here?

Thanks again everyone.

According to a quick google search, the T 4 A L 250V fuse ratings means:
- Timed (e.g. like slow-blow)
- 4A load
- AL   Axial leads
- 250 V interrupt capability when it blows

So, from the manual and the above info, you should be OK with a replacement 5A timed 250V fuse
for the domestic 115VAC market, especially since the original 4A lasted for so long.

If there is a real short/problem in your machine, the 5A fuse should also blow shortly after (faster than a 8A for sure!).
Just make sure nothing is overheating when you try your machine after replacing the fuse.

Good luck !
Cheers,
- Sylvain.

I now have a question myself.....

Seeing as the WPC95 fuse rating is 4A for 220VAC and 5A for 110VAC..... why is it for WPC they list the 4A for 220VAC and 8A for 110VAC?  The only answer I can think of is slightly different driver design, but that doesn't make much sense seeing as the 220VAC rating still requires a 4A fuse....

Thoughts?

D

Interesting, the Fuse label that's put inside the machines apparently says 5A (rated 250volt) as per : http://www.iobium.com/Tech%20Templates/WPC95fuseslegal.pdf

Some other info: (from pinrepair.com)

"Seems like such a simple thing, yet many of us forget to do it. Before turning the game on, check the fuses. Not only look for blown fuses, but especially over-fused circuits. For example, is there an 8 amp fuse where there should be a 5 amp? Is there a slow blow fuse where there should be a fast blow?"

"Smaller Fuses in WPC-95 Games.
With WPC-95 Williams changed to the smaller international ISO size (.75" or 5x20mm) GMC "T" fuses 250 volts (but 125 volt fuses work fine too). The "T" designation means "timed delay", or in other words, it's a slow-blow style fuse. Note there are also GMA "F" (F means "fast blow") fuses, but part WPC-95 games only use slow-blow GMC "T" fuses. As for the "T" and "GMC" terminology, Buss uses the "GMC" and Littlefuse uses the "T" terminology ("T" and "GMC" are the same thing). WPC-S and earlier games used the older American 3AG or AGC 1.25" size fuses. Since Williams exports over 50% of their production outside of North America, it made sense to change. The 5x20mm fuses take up less space on the circuit boards too. "

"WPC-95 games:

Line Fuse: Located in the metal power box just inside the coin door, if one of the driver board diodes D19-22 is blown, this fuse can fail immediately at power up. Also if the varistor inside the metal power box is shorted, this fuse will blow. And finally, if a bridge rectifier on the AV board is blown, this can also cause the line fuse to blow on some games (but only when the coin door is closed!) "

"WPC-95:
Line Fuse: Value/type depends on the game's main voltage. If there is a problem as the line cord or power box, this fuse blows. Also if driver board diodes D19-D22 are bad, it can blow this fuse. WPC-95 (domestic): T5.0 amp, "T" small size. WPC-95 (foreign): T4.0 amp, "T" small size. "

Leads me to believe it should be a 5amp 250v rated GMC T type fuse....  

^^^^^^^^
Absolutely.

Scared Stiff manual.

Section 1-52. Read it, learn it, know it.

Thanks for all the information.

As an update - I replaced the blown 4.0 Amp line-fuse in my SS with the correct 5.0 Amp fuse and everything appears to be fine.

If I blow another one anytime soon, I will assume I have a problem somewhere. Until then - If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Kudos again everyone for all the help.