How come nobody ever talks about applying Mylar to a playfield?
I have a Super Nova that needs some touch up and I was considering doing a complete playfield cover with mylar when done.
Reasons: 1. Easier, quicker, and cheaper than Auto clear. 2. Reversable if I change my mind later. 3. My Pinbot still has it's original Factory Mylar and after polishing it still looks quite nice. For the amount of play that a pin gets in home use I would think it should last a lot longer if properly cared for. 4. Super Nova is not what I would consider a collectors game so I don't know if I want to invest that much work into it.
Has anyone here ever done a Mylar job or ever considered it? Someone want to talk me out of it?
Adam
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Cleaning & retouching correctly (with proper color match & pattern) the bad area, if localized, followed by a mylar on top of the retouch (and cleaning/waxing the remaining of the playfield) might be a simpler idea in my opinion, since installing a complete mylar/overlay without bubbling or creasing is very very difficult.... if clear coat is not an option, and if no mylar already applied...
I agree Super Nova is a good candidate to try this type of retouch, as it would not change its value too much... Unless the retouch is badly done.
Cheers, - Sylvain
Looking for 1966 Bally Capersville, 1967 Bally The Wiggler, 1981 Stern Viper, 1986 Pinstar Gamatron, 1986 Williams Grand Lizard, 1991 Williams Bride of Pinbot, and a few others. Cash or some trades available. Could also repair a machine of yours +/-$ if needed, in exchange for one machine on my want list, non-working/unshopped welcome!
I was thinking a full mylar as opposed to patches so that it would not affect ball travel. Or do you think that this would not be a problem? I agree that a full cover would be difficult, probably a two person job.
Adam
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Thick mylar would affect ball travel slightly, indeed. Thin mylar no. Heck, even Bally used to provide half-moon slingshot kicker mylar to apply in front of the slings back then (late 70s - early 80s)...
I had purchased a full playfield-size sheet of mylar a while ago on eBay and used it for 'patches' on some of my pinballs (only if necessary), and noticed it is thin enough not to impact ball trajectory, while thick enough to protect the retouched sensitive area. I do not know the thickness of that mylar though. It is thinner than the Bally half-moon slings mylar protector for sure.
While a mylar over the complete playfield is probably ideal (providing the playfield under is clean, light shields/inserts leveled and properly glued, playfield surface even and nicely retouched if necessary), I would not attempt a complete mylar over for the reasons indicated above... Plus you would also need to depopulate completely the upper side of the playfield from all the stuff (pop-bumpers are a bit of a pain due to the soldered light socket) before application. Might as well clear-coat then Plus even with the hair dryer (or the freeze spray), removing mylar, if ever desired in the future, then the glue, is a *pain*, and would sometimes (or often?) lift some of the paint/artwork. But mylar protects against poor maintenance, no wax and pitted/rusted balls
Good luck, - Sylvain
Looking for 1966 Bally Capersville, 1967 Bally The Wiggler, 1981 Stern Viper, 1986 Pinstar Gamatron, 1986 Williams Grand Lizard, 1991 Williams Bride of Pinbot, and a few others. Cash or some trades available. Could also repair a machine of yours +/-$ if needed, in exchange for one machine on my want list, non-working/unshopped welcome!
How come nobody ever talks about applying Mylar to a playfield?
Because it plays and looks bad.
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Reasons: 1. Easier, quicker, and cheaper than Auto clear.
why easier ? you still need to strip it down. quicker : yeah, ok but not by much cheaper: yes. if you are worried, clear with Varathane. Very good results and a LOT cheaper then auto clear.
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2. Reversable if I change my mind later.
So is varathane
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3. My Pinbot still has it's original Factory Mylar and after polishing it still looks quite nice. For the amount of play that a pin gets in home use I would think it should last a lot longer if properly cared for.
then enjoy it but you don't know the power of the da.... err.. I mean you don't know what you're missing when it's clearcoated.
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4. Super Nova is not what I would consider a collectors game so I don't know if I want to invest that much work into it.
One more reason to try Clearcoating ? Will change you mind about mylar forever, I promise !
Mrhide.pinnesota.org RAA La marié de Pinbot et La Créature du Lagon Noir, Eclipse et Capt. Card
Also you mention that it's reversible.. Well it is but only for the non-touched up areas. As soon as you take that baby off all the touch ups you did are going with it. Unless you clearcoat the touch ups first... And then why not do the whole thing anyway!
Mike
Currently owning: ============ MAME in Sega cab with 25" arcade monitor (Has a 12" Bazooka powered subwoofer in it) - Not for sale Williams Civic Center Shuffle Alley (Puck Bowler) (1973) - 350$ Seeburg LS1 "Spectra" Jukebox (1967) - 300$
Currently babysitting =============== Heavy Metal Meltdown SOLD - leaving soon
Previously owned ============= Hot Tip, Countdown, HS, WWF, TFTC, T2, RS, Pinbot, Laser War, LOTR, Flinstones, FH, DM, STTNG, Getaway, Silver Slugger, Laser Ball, Bad Cats, Batman Forever, Meteor, TZ, Galaxy, 6MDM, TSPP, MB.
I'm now leaning towards Mylar patches but I'll wait till after the final cleaning before I commit to anything. As commented, whatever I decide this will be a good game to practise on... If things do go bad I won't be losing much.
This game has just become my designated guinea pig!
Adam
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