Ordered some parts from PBR and had bought some pop bumper adhesive mylar die cuts . Anybody use these on a perfectly new looking playfeild? .Just want to keep things as clean as possible. Are they worth using ?

I have used them in the past.  They are excellent and hardly visable.  If/when you do see them, you are re-assured that your game is protected.  

I like to mylar all my poppers (if they are not already mylared).  I have used non-adhesive, but don't like how they move around.

You can also buy adhesive mylar for your slingshots, but I find that these give the playfield unwanted bumps at the mylar edges.

Instead,
On games where the playfield is getting a little worn, or I have repaired the playfield, I like to mylar the entire effected play surface.  Some like to clearcoat, but I do not have a contact for that, and lack the ability to do it myself.

PRS sell sheets (by the foot) of adhesive Mylar.  The only difficulty is applyinging it correctly... not hard, but you do need some skill.

Good luck.

I understood that, for home use, mylar (or clearcoat) wasn't really necessary. Playfield cleaned, touch-ups could (should?) be made and just waxed is adequate. However, I'm not certain.

there is always the removable "self adhesive" sheets that you can buy at staples. I have used them with no prob.

1 spot on my DM is started to get a bit "foggy" (scratches in the clear adhesive) after about a year of play. so I just pealed it off and put a new sheet on, took about 5 min.

This product was also called "miracle Mylar" as a joke

oh, and 1 more thing...

it is NOT 10 bucks a sheet. A pack at staples has 20 some odd sheets in it (IIRC) and is approx 5 bucks (IIRC)

I put the die cut mylar from PBR around my Xenon pop bumper, if you don't like them it is easy to remove. Just heat them a little and remove them.   I think it's a good idea to put them, they give a nice and original look and they protect from abusive marks from pressure from pop bumper shots.

ditto, pop bumper mylar a good thing.  Adhesive only way to go (although not as authentic in an older em) as dirt and grit gets under the non adhesive kind and then actually increases the sandpaper-like abrasive action.

I add mylar or similar spots to ball drop areas regardless of whether I am going to touch up as it helps halt the damage and are not especially difficult to remove.

If you are touching up, you should apply a light spray of  water-based clear to hold the acrylic paint, just in case it didn't adhere properly, as it will crack up over time.  Mylaring is optional and dependent on the character of the playfield, but often what is needed is to address the underlying issues.  Sunken inserts, scraping or mis-angled flippers, kickers and slingshots that are propelling the ball upwards, habitrails drops need better cushioning, angle or simply mylar... and then the problem is generally taken care of in a home environment.

Keep in mind that in a home envirpnment, unless you play the game daily (or the fault is agressive, or the playfield paint is water, humidity or heat damaged or exceedingly old), it will take years to advance the damage (beyond playfield dulling).  Take a look at the play meters, you will see that it may have taken 50,000 or more plays (and located in some mine's lounge in Quebec) for advanced damage to accumulate.  Then again a couplenights hosting TOPL events could result in damage too  - my machines ONLY malfunction when guests or kids play them for some reason!!!!    

I should add that mylaring over homedone touch-ups is iffy as most people paint too think and don't clearcoat / sand and while the acrylic paint is tough, a rough surface is hard to mylar over ... bubbles or loose areas can develop and spoil the look (as does mylar over a sunken insert).