I've already started drilling the front lock but no go so far. I didn't bring tools as I assumed it would be open. The backbox is locked as well but the owner said he thinks he left the keys in the coin return and they might have slid in (?).
Any advice?
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Well the backbox keys are *usually* hanging inside the coin door if they were put back where they belong. You may even find a spare screwed to the inside wall of the body of the machine. As for drilling out the lock, if you haven't drilled all the way through, keep drilling. I normally use a very small bit and try and chew the tumblers out of the lock with the drill so I can just turn the lock with a screwdriver. If it was a flimsy single bitted lock, you may be able to gently, and I mean gently, pry the door open and bend the cam. Only do that as a last resort though, as you will probably still damage the coin door a little.
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Drill the lock out is the best method or if you know how to use a lock pick tools. I have also seen brute force method but don't recommend it.
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However, one obvious security item they missed in the video is the wear of safety goggles...
Why? Because flying metal chips or a broken drill bit could cause severe eye injury!!
...Better be safe than sorry.
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... no PM received, but I put the videos aside for a while due to some disgruntled ex-member called hayabusafmw that asked me to cancel his account for he would never come back, is not trash-talking me in all my videos on Youtube. So the time I spent making the videos is now used to police him not only here (because he is STILL trying to access the site and register under another name to stir up more garbage) but on youtube.
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... no PM received, but I put the videos aside for a while due to some disgruntled ex-member called hayabusafmw that asked me to cancel his account for he would never come back, is not trash-talking me in all my videos on Youtube. So the time I spent making the videos is now used to police him not only here (because he is STILL trying to access the site and register under another name to stir up more garbage) but on youtube.
Huh?? Sorry, I didn't quite catch the jist of what's going on. He doesn't like your videos so he's trash talking you........somewhere(youtube)???? I wouldn't even know how he could pick on your videos. They have always been very straightforward and VERY informative. If you could clue me in I'd appreciate it and also DID I DO SOMETHING WRONG WITH MY VIDEO LINK?? Just trying to help a member out. Sorry if it's not allowed, don't remember that one in the rules.
p.s. LOVE the newest avatar.
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Huh?? Sorry, I didn't quite catch the jist of what's going on. He doesn't like your videos so he's trash talking you........somewhere(youtube)???? I wouldn't even know how he could pick on your videos. They have always been very straightforward and VERY informative. If you could clue me in I'd appreciate it and also DID I DO SOMETHING WRONG WITH MY VIDEO LINK?? Just trying to help a member out. Sorry if it's not allowed, don't remember that one in the rules.
p.s. LOVE the newest avatar.
Don't worry... he's just a private. He posts garbage in the comments section.
... Back on the subject:
YES, wear safety goggles... very important. But if I may point out something... of course, if you drill through the tumblers, they SHOULD let the barrel turn, BUT they also might remain stuck. The thing is, locks are made of soft metal, so you will notice that your drill bit will "eat" through the lock easy... but at some point, you will feel a resistance, as if the bit is drilling through something harder... that would be the bolt holding the lock tab in place. if you keep going, and provided you used a big enough drill bit (slightly bigger than the bolt threads) and you centered your drilling, the bolt will let go and the lock tab will drop in the cab... making your panel/coindoor open perfectly freely.
Also, a handy tool you will need is a SHOPVAC!!! As soon as you are done, vacuum all the metal shavings. They are a pain... especially when stuck in a finger.
Another trick I use to avoid a mess is to use a magnetized plate to collect the shavings when I drill. I have a square metal magnetized plate that I bought from Canadian Tire years ago that I use to hold parts when I dissassemble a component. Great for not losing parts, but also works fantastic when you hold it just under the lock that you are drilling. All the shavings (for the most part) fall in the plate and stay there. But I still recommend vacuuming immediately after, inside the cab and out.
The thing is, locks are made of soft metal, so you will notice that your drill bit will "eat" through the lock easy... but at some point, you will feel a resistance, as if the bit is drilling through something harder... that would be the bolt holding the lock tab in place.
Unless the lock is a tubular lock, those are generally a much harder metal than the single and double bitted locks. If it is a tubular lock, buy a couple of cheapie drill bits because you will trash them drilling though the lock.
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Unless the lock is a tubular lock, those are generally a much harder metal than the single and double bitted locks. If it is a tubular lock, buy a couple of cheapie drill bits because you will trash them drilling though the lock.
Excellent point... I use cobalt-tipped brill bits, so it's not much of a factor. If you use cheaper bits, get yourself a drill bit sharpener. I personally do them freehand (been doing it for years... used to it) but often people throw away bits when they don't cut anymore, when all it takes is a few seconds to resharpen it.
And also... for new locks, most hardware stores sell some. Measure the length of your lock barrel first and then go look in the cabinet hardware section. They are the cheaper single-bitted locks though.
For double-bitted or tubular (avoid if possible... pain in the a**... can't really just leave the key in it when playing), a local distributor or even Ebay is a good bet. There are some Ebay vendors that offer locks with the same key code. Can be pricey, but worth it.
... no PM received, but I put the videos aside for a while due to some disgruntled ex-member called hayabusafmw that asked me to cancel his account for he would never come back, is not trash-talking me in all my videos on Youtube. So the time I spent making the videos is now used to police him not only here (because he is STILL trying to access the site and register under another name to stir up more garbage) but on youtube.
Unless I'm missing something, I only saw one comment on one video from him - and it wasn't derogatory - it just didn't make sense, like usual.
Regarding the lock - 3 seconds with a decent drill and bit...
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Sorry guys but there is no general answer to this question.
You need to know what type of lock your attacking first so you can plan the best method of attack. Generalizing in many cases is going to create more work if you use the wrong method.
Hopefully you hit on the 99.9% garbage locks that operators install and can use brute force and ignorance to get into it. Most are readily picked with the right knowledge and equipment. Many can simply have a key made from the code if there of decent quality and not even wrecked. If you happen to come across anything better than the generic single bit wafer lock then your going to be in for a challenge using the "just drill out the centre" method. In fact attacking it the wrong way will make far more work and will prohibit any hopes of picking it.
Sparky mess locks are made of soft medal. Real locks are made of hardened steel or have hardened steel inserts strategically placed to bind and snap your drill.