Arcade Monitor - help wanted (for two arcades)
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websherpa
July 6, 2008, 12:48pm Report to Moderator

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I'll post this this here and over on cgcc as well. Although as part of my electronics training I will eventually get to video arcades, I'm not quite there yet and I have a client with two arcades needing repairs (looks to me like they just need re-capped chassis).  One is a Ms. Pacman upright ,  the other is a jamma 39-1 remade generic cabinet, but the monitor and chassis are: Matsushita TM-202G , NMX-L21G - neither monitor has severe burn-in so those look salvageable. Oakville area.

Not certain if I should attempt the swap myself (the owner of the previous has fooled around with the yoke settings).  So I am looking for a reputable MAACA member (or recommendation) to go in as a referral partner to repair these on site for me.  Discharging monitors and replacing chassis doesn't look to be too complicated for someone with electronics experience, but knowing what to adjust once it's done is where I'd be faultering if it wasn't in my own shop.  If I can't find someone I may try to get up to speed, but not having an arcade unit myself makes learning abotu them a slow process.

Thanks!


Wayne (webSherpa) "WEB"
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Tuborg
July 6, 2008, 1:09pm Report to Moderator

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I wouldn't mind a reference for one in the Ottawa area, too  
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arcadecalgary
July 7, 2008, 9:30am Report to Moderator
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if it is any more than a yoke adjustment or fuse change the Matsushita's are not worth repairing. Get a couple chassis cheap from http://www.8liners.com and be done with it . they are called MatsuSHITa for a reason , they are a junky monitor
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websherpa
July 7, 2008, 10:51am Report to Moderator

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Thank you for the reference.  Is there any similar monitor/chassis suppliers in Canada? (Just worried about shipping & customs).

Thanks!


Wayne (webSherpa) "WEB"
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Grauwulf
July 7, 2008, 6:10pm Report to Moderator

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No such luck on a Canadian supplier for those chassis as far as I know. If the monitor is basically working, but has colour or geometry problems, cap it first. It's cheap and relatively easy to. I have a working TM-202G chassis here, freshly capped.


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