I was just thinking....Could I leave my G.I. harness not connected to my Power Driver board and just wire up my own GI circuit for the lights?

This way I could bypass the PDB all together.

where could I "steal" the AC power form?

Thanks in advance guys/gals.

I would not recomend that.
Better off fixing the board you have.

Quoted from Pharoah007

I was just thinking....Could I leave my G.I. harness not connected to my Power Driver board and just wire up my own GI circuit for the lights?

This way I could bypass the PDB all together.

where could I "steal" the AC power form?

Thanks in advance guys/gals.

understood. Curious, why do you not recommend it?

I am going to bring the board to the meet up and HOPE TO GOD that someone can help me fix it.

Thanks man.
Z.

Quoted from Pharoah007

understood. Curious, why do you not recommend it?

I am going to bring the board to the meet up and HOPE TO GOD that someone can help me fix it.

Thanks man.
Z.

WPC not only controls the on-off portion, but it has 5 "zones", and different levels of intensity too..  You'd be losing a lot of lighting effects, not to mention the overheating of plastics because your GI would be "on" at full brightness all the time..

Mike

In my experience and opinion:
It is much easier and safer to do a proper professional repair job
as opposed to do a potentially unsafe, unreliable & non-original hack...

Plus, if the job is well done, your machine will retain its value
(and the GI will work reliably).

- Sylvain.

Quoted from sylvain

In my experience and opinion:
It is much easier and safer to do a proper professional repair job
as opposed to do a potentially unsafe, unreliable & non-original hack...

Plus, if the job is well done, your machine will retain its value
(and the GI will work reliably).

- Sylvain.

That does make alot of sence.

Thanks man.

Much simple to repare the board you have... try it yourself at home...you can't miss this, try it slowly and test each time with continuity test on the multimeter to verify that theres no connection between the pins...that's it! In my opinion, you can't miss it. Believe me, worth the try!!

Eric

Quoted from Rider

Much simple to repare the board you have... try it yourself at home...you can't miss this, try it slowly and test each time with continuity test on the multimeter to verify that theres no connection between the pins...that's it! In my opinion, you can't miss it. Believe me, worth the try!!

Eric

Agreed, however, seeing as this is my ONLY board and the damage looks fairley serious (see my GI problems thread in the pins only section) I would like at the verry least to do it under the supervision of someone with experience. not to mention all my tools are cheep raido shack sools and I am sure that some people here have good soldering and desoldering stations.

Thanks Eric
Z.

You would be suprised how many of us use cheap soldering tools

Quoted from Pharoah007

Agreed, however, seeing as this is my ONLY board and the damage looks fairley serious (see my GI problems thread in the pins only section) I would like at the verry least to do it under the supervision of someone with experience. not to mention all my tools are cheep raido shack sools and I am sure that some people here have good soldering and desoldering stations.

Thanks Eric
Z.

Quoted from Pharoah007

Agreed, however, seeing as this is my ONLY board and the damage looks fairley serious (see my GI problems thread in the pins only section) I would like at the verry least to do it under the supervision of someone with experience. not to mention all my tools are cheep raido shack sools and I am sure that some people here have good soldering and desoldering stations.

Thanks Eric
Z.

With pinball collecting / owning, you either have to invest some time in learning to repair them (with confidence and learn from mistakes, etc.) or have a big wallet to pay for repairs. Pinballs will and do regularly need attention and repairs.

Begin by utilizing tools at hand, nothing you can do can't be undone by someone else. Use inexpensive but applicable tools (like a soldering pencil instead of a soldering gun, desoldering braid or a SolderPuldit etc.) - until you are on your 4th (or 25th) pinball repair - at which time, if you still repair pins, you will appreciate more professional tools.

I am sure there are many who would show you technique, and I would too, but considering that the board repair itself will take time (at least an hour) and you need to replace your female Connectors too, and its always better to test your repair AND look for other issues at the same time, your best bet would be to invite a local area member to come visit you, or offer to bring your machine down to them - if someone is willing and able.

I think many MAACA members are like me, they have a travelling fix-it kit ready to go in the van at most times.

One other thing.  Just because a machine plays and seems to be workign, do not assume that everything is working.  Particularly with WPCs, they hide faults really well so that they remain playable in a money-making location.  I can't tell you how many "works 100%" pinballs I've bought that still have hacks, GI strings out, solenoid circuits toasted, mixed up connectors, burnt out and dieing displays.... the list goes one and on.  But then I like the challenge and am too cheap to buy real HUO machines.  

just plug a neon under the playfield, drill a whole on the side of the cabinet, preferably in the middle of very intrigate art, pass the wire there and plug it in the wall ! easy !  

Quoted from Mrhide

just plug a neon under the playfield, drill a whole on the side of the cabinet, preferably in the middle of very intrigate art, pass the wire there and plug it in the wall ! easy !  

Phil, I didn't know you used to work at Stern.

You want to get one of these while they are on sale (like now!)

http://www.active-tech.ca/b2c/redirect.cfm?pn=2