So I figure I go fishing around looking for a tube for my good old fashioned G07 19" Vertical Electrohome R.G.B. monitor. It comes to me that this is a Canadian company from way back and I see sure enough the manual with the machine shows Kitchener, Ont. as the birthplace of this device.

So I go online and come up with this. http://www.electrohome.com/products/branded_products.htm

and proceed to scroll down to a point where it tells me for Game Monitor Parts call
1-800-456-7277

So I punch that into a reverse phone lookup and it comes up with
ANSCOT COIN-OP DEVICES

So I Google that and don't find anything current on them.

Does this company ring a bell to anyone?

I am starting to get the impression that just hunting for a tube is a wasted cause and a new complete chassis is gonna be coming my way.

I'm pretty sure you can use any 19" tube you want so long as it has the same pinout. All you will have to do it swap the yoke and convergence rings off your old tube and then re-converge the monitor. This is not a task for the faint-hearted though. What's the problem with the tube you have now? Just burn-in?

Yeah. It looks like your playing the game when the cord is kicked out of the wall.

In terms of the faint of heart issue. I am good up to tube implosion in your face and high voltage electricution. So basically I am not concerned with anything up to chassis meltdown. If it is a puzzle to put back together then all the more fun.

You should take a look at the service manual for the G07 to get a feel for what is involved in reconverging a montior.

I already did. It doesn't appear to be rocket science other than the signal generator I don't possess.

But what are the chances of finding a 19" tube with no burn?

So here is the question. Whats in matching up a CGA tube to a chassis?

I have two perfectly clean 19"tubes here that are going to get a yoke swap so I can use them with a G07 chassis. They aren't too hard to find, you just have to pick up a few 19" tv's from yardsales.

If you have a MAME setup I believe you can find a program over at the BYOAC board that will do the test pattern stuff for you. Search for Nokia in the monitor sectio and it should turn up if I remember correctly. A lot of JAMMA boards will do the test patterns too.

Ok here is a dumb question. What is the difference between these following  19" tubes:

TV
CGA
RGB
VGA
SVGA

Which works with which chassis?

                                                    ?

Interesting note on tube sizes:

Television Screen size


     
     We are often asked to explain the measurement and sizes of television displays and yes it can be confusing so here are the facts.


     
     All screen sizes are measured from corner to corner diagonally, why?  Well in the early days of TV all tubes were round in shape and it was the mask that the tube fitted into that gave the square picture shape and the widest part of the picture was diagonal.  When manufacturers started making squarer tubes they still measured them on the diagonal corner to corner but they still used a mask to make the actual picture shape.  Therefore you could have a tube that was 20" across but when placed in the mask you could only see about 18" of the picture.  With the development of newer tubes and construction methods tubes we pushed through the cabinet so that the hole tube was visible but they were still measured on the diagonal.

With the advent of PC monitors an new measurement came into being, "the visible screen size".  This is the diagonal size of the visible picture area that can be seen although the actual size of the tube may in fact be bigger, hence a 32" TV will actually show a 30" picture.

The same thing is used in the car industry to describe a car model.  The Wild Horse 2ltr GLX will be only about 1990cc and not 2ltr.

So if you want a true picture size you should always look for the "Visible Screen Size" normally quoted in metric centimeters as against the full tube size being quoted in imperial inches.

This information holds true for most television display screens, tubes, plasma, LCD etc.

So I am jumping in both feet first with a nice tube I picked up for $20. WTF it sounded like fun and how much smoke can this thing really create. So I pulled apart the set and hocked out the tube. Yep pinout on the back looks the same only difference visible is the degaussing coil looks like it has a polarity i.e. one white and one black wire as opposed to two whites and there are two ground straps as opposed to one but no big deal they both terminate to a common terminal on the original board.

So next I get to the purity and convergence rings (glue and crud removed first), off they go on both monitors and I note the position. Finally I pull the yokes and there is two naked tubes sitting in from of me. I bolted the new tube into the chassis.

Tomorrow I will put this puzzle back together and see if will actually work. i.e. I get some unintelligible picture to start playing with. If it does I will be amazed.

(I fully anticipate buying a new monitor but this seemed like too much fun to just pass up on)

I will be doing the same thing eventually. I have a couple of nice tubes and yokes from G07's that had broken necks. It's a project I'm saving for the winter time when I'm bored and have nothing else to do. Let me know how you make out though.

Well, waddaya know. A Picture and not a bad one either with zero burn for $20 bucks.

It's actually clearer than the photo depicts. Looks really good.

Looks pretty darn good to me. How did you end up dealing with doing the convergence?

Well I had it nailed following the instructions. It was a bit of dicking around to figure out precisely where along the neck it had the desired effect for each ring. So i zeroed everything and started from there. Now the only issue that I can't figure out why is when it went into the cab in the vertical it went out again. Not only that but in the process of poping it in and out a speaker lead came loose and shorted. So now I need to reset the convergence and fix the finals on the amp.

I am also getting some slight interference on the screen in the cab (little white dots) so I am checking the wiring routing to try and isolate. I am hoping "big blue" isn't the culprit.

1 Step forward today.... and 2 steps back.

Update:

I pulled the monitor and had a look at setting up the convergence again. I can now see that the upper left corner is not getting full colour saturation. I think it is time to recap the board before I go any further with trying to rectify the convergence issues. If this was a normal orientation that would be the left side of the screen. I know cap issues can effect this side so I will go in that direction. Overall it is nice but the upper left corner is slightly off colour and I am somewhat of a perfectionist.