5101 can be damaged easily. Don't rule it out based on it working before. Static could have damaged it.

As stated the speed is important as well.

I have used that Philips chip in System 7 repairs before with no problems.

Quoted from gmaranda

    * TP1 = +5 vdc
    * TP2 = Ground
    * TP3 = +11.9 vdc
    * TP4 = +43 vdc
    * TP5 = +43 vdc (solenoid return)

Everything is good except TP5 shows nothing anyone know why other than its broken? Even if this is broken it still don't fix my problem because I don't believe this could be the problem I am tracking.

The Last Flash.
If you game does the initial flicker, and then follows with all the flashes but the last flash (flash number seven, or flash six on Baby Pac/Granny), check your +43 volt solenoid power F4 fuse on the rectifier board before proceeding. This last flash verifies that the game has +43 volts for the solenoids. If it doesn't (the F4 fuse is blown), the game won't boot and won't finish the flash sequence.

I don't know this system but this statement tells me the +43 V is relevant to the game booting.

Quoted from necro_nemesis

5101 can be damaged easily. Don't rule it out based on it working before. Static could have damaged it.

As stated the speed is important as well.

I have used that Philips chip in System 7 repairs before with no problems.



The Last Flash.
If you game does the initial flicker, and then follows with all the flashes but the last flash (flash number seven, or flash six on Baby Pac/Granny), check your +43 volt solenoid power F4 fuse on the rectifier board before proceeding. This last flash verifies that the game has +43 volts for the solenoids. If it doesn't (the F4 fuse is blown), the game won't boot and won't finish the flash sequence.

I don't know this system but this statement tells me the +43 V is relevant to the game booting.

Fuse F4 appears fine (continuity test OK) but I ordered brand new fuses all around. This way I will be sure nothing is wrong because of the fuses.  You can't have to many fuses anyway

tks for the suggestions

Gilles

Ok! gents I still need your help  

For those that have been helping me so far I will be receiving a 5101 chip this week with some new fuses, new 0.100 and 0.156 pins etc.  I will find this problem no matter what

How do I remove the 5101 on the board and install the new one without breaking anything?  I have looked at it and it seems straight forward but I want to be sure.  Any tips or good advice?

tks

Gilles

If there is no socket for the RAM chip it's highly advisable to install one. If there is a socket, gently pry the chip out using a small non-magnetic flat screwdriver. When installing the new chip, make sure all the legs are in holes before pushing it in fully.

The original 5101 was defective when you sent the boards to me.

The chip in there was replaced with brand new and was game tested for nearly a month. It may be a matter of just reseating it.

Also those boards were shipped back in antistatic bags and were originally working when you got them back, right? Might be another issue but might be as simple as just reseating the 5101. The boards DID work 100% in my game, went into test mode/aduits fine, I never had an issue once they were repaired. My money is still on a connector issue as the pins were fine on the MPU board.... it's gotta be some other issue is causing the trouble

Dan

Quoted from gmaranda

Yes, one right away, a slight pause then 6 in a row.

tks

Strike my last post......That's seven flashes... does the game go into the attract mode????

After the 7th flash the LED should be lit dimly and the game should go into attract/start-up mode. I think you're chasing a ghost with the MPU issue... I still feel it's a connector issue.

Quoted from Bally Boy

Strike my last post......That's seven flashes... does the game go into the attract mode????

After the 7th flash the LED should be lit dimly and the game should go into attract/start-up mode. I think you're chasing a ghost with the MPU issue... I still feel it's a connector issue.

After the 7th flash nothing happens. I can't say if anything worked when I installed the boards since I never got passed what I described.  I am not saying it is the boards but I have done a lot of continuity tests and the switch in the door is making contact with the MPU.  I have inspected all connectors and they appear OK but I understand that they could have lost their continuity (heat treatment) and it would not really show.

I was ordering parts from GPE so I just ordered a 5101 since they are not too expensive. I will try this and then change all the connectors.  

tks

Did you check the 1A slow blow fuse under the playfield ?

It might (or might not) cause no 7th flash.

- Sylvain

Quoted from sylvain

Did you check the 1A slow blow fuse under the playfield ?

It might (or might not) cause no 7th flash.

- Sylvain

Oh man...if it ends up being the 1A fuse, he's gonna crap his pants !!!!!  

Quoted from sylvain

Did you check the 1A slow blow fuse under the playfield ?

It might (or might not) cause no 7th flash.

- Sylvain

Hi!

I have 7 flashes and the light stays a bit dim after but it does not go into attract mode.  YES I have checked the fuses under the playfield and in the backbox.   I have learned a few things over the last few months fixing my pins.......  However, as stated all suggestions welcomed

tks

What exactly occurs after the 7th flash ?
- displays
- controlled lights ?

Does it boot and go in attrack mode if the sound board's connector
*and* J2 and J3 on the MPU are disconnected (then power-up) ?

- Sylvain.

Quoted from sylvain

Does it boot and go in attrack mode if the sound board's connector
*and* J2 and J3 on the MPU are disconnected (then power-up) ?

- Sylvain.

I was going to suggest the same thing.