I can print them on backlight material here at work as well.. just need the scan

Not as nice as the real thing, but better than nothing.  

Hey Brock, If a second print on opaque vinyl/film is done just for the blocking areas (from an image of the reverse of the backglass) do you think the image would be comparable to the original? I would cut the light blocking areas and stick to the reverse of the translight.

actually with the material we use the image is printed on the front, so your best bet would be to mask off the areas at the back that you'd like to show light and then spray the rest of the area with a silver paint -- just my thoughts.. I've never tried this before, either.  

My opinion? if you are going to repro a backglass on a translite, you will have to also repro the back of the glass to create the opacity effect. I would take a quick scan, make low-tack vinyl stickers of the translucent areas, stick them on the back of the translite, paint the back a silver gray and then remove the vinyl stickers. Presto. you have created the same effects.

My intention is to get a second transparent or semi transparent sheet, trace the lines of the transparent translight areas,  cut and stick to the rear of the translight for masking. I can use a tacky spray glue used for stencilling to hold on the masking. I will then spray on a masking layer, perhaps a dull gray or silver like the original.

Got an offer from a guy in NY to buy a copy of a scan of a NOS Barracora but the scan cost him $150.00 and he asked me to make him an offer....no clue what that should be without being a sucker/cheapskate.

Can't be gray unfortunately.. it HAS to be silver to block out the light.  The reflectiveness of the silver paint is key to bouncing the light away, where is gray will still let most of the spectrum through...