So as not to hijack the other thread, Necro and Tommy's discussion over the Molex connector made me realize I need abit of help in that department.
I have an MM from Germany that when I got it, the seller had forgot to convert so I just "borrowed" the connector from my AFM that was in parts and then rewired the MM molex connector to match when I had time. It has worked great for 2 years so I did it right BUT then was basically stupid and put the AFM connector on a shelf as the game was folded inaccessible. Golden retriever puppy comes and promptly finds a new chew toy .
I searched my local suppliers and no luck...does anybody know if these were Williams only or are they available somewhere else? Any sources and real name of that connector would be greatly appreciated since AFM is next on the playfield swap!
Hey ToMMy, If you are ever out west... Come on over and Play one, amongst about 30+ others!
Dave (Sorry about the Hijack ME)
Here are games I would like to acquire this year, or sometime...
24 Iron Man Attack From Mars Prefer Pounded playfield! Monster Bash Prefer Pounded Playfield! Elvis Sopranos Batman Forever Spider-Man Stern Prefer Pounded Playfield!
Have these available for trade or possible sale: Corvette South Park Theatre of Magic Twilight Zone RFM/SW:EP1 Nucore Combo AFM
Here's pictures of the connector both in and out. Hope they make sense.
Ok, yeah, that's the normal WPC one I was talking about in the other thread. I checked around the normal sources this afternoon, but can't find them anymore. They are just a tad bigger than the normal 'molex' brand 12 pin connector (like used on the older bally's).
I have a spare one here if you need it. Let me know & I'll send it to you. Mark gave me a spare power harness awhile back that I don't need anymore.
btw ... those 2 cut wires on the crimp connectors normally go to the coindoor bill validator (if so equipped). Another potential shock hazard if they are cut-off like that in the picture. Trim 'em off as close as you can inside the plastic wire nut, and drop some epoxy or goop glue into the nut to prevent anything from touching the bare wire inside!!!!!! Don't want another Gory Story
Hey Dave, thanks for the offer! I'll certainly make an effort if I can ever manage to get away for a break one of these years! (ToMMy, wishing he was nearer retirement age sometimes)
Thanks both for the advice and the part offer - I'll do that tonight and I'll take you up on your offer as the one from my AFM post puppy chewing is unsaveable .
Thanks both for the advice and the part offer - I'll do that tonight and I'll take you up on your offer as the one from my AFM post puppy chewing is unsaveable .
I'll PM my address.
Thanks again ME
Ouch! Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy him a Kong?
Depending on the game they use 9 pin or 12 pin. If you have a WPC schematic, at the front it lists out the different configurations for the voltages.
Trim 'em off as close as you can inside the plastic wire nut, and drop some epoxy or goop glue into the nut to prevent anything from touching the bare wire inside!!!!!!
Tommy, wouldn't a normal electrical marrette work? Hmmm, I guess a "wire nut" is a marrette. So you put goop glue in there just to make sure the marrette doesn't fall off (and I guess to shield small wires falling in there)?
Tommy, wouldn't a normal electrical marrette work? Hmmm, I guess a "wire nut" is a marrette. So you put goop glue in there just to make sure the marrette doesn't fall off (and I guess to shield small wires falling in there)?
Yeah, a wire nut is a marrette too. Just the ones they used from the factory in this case don't screw-on, they are crimped on. Non-removable. If you look really closely at ME's pictures, you can see where someone previously removed (cut) the two unused AC wires that normally go the optional bill validater. I suppose the crimped wire nuts could be cut off instead, and replaced with marrettes, but I just think it looks more original to leave them there, and remove as much of the cut-off wire as possible. Then a bit of glue in the cap to prevent anything from poking in there to touch the live remaining ends. That's all. If you had the molex tools, you could also simply remove these two offending jumpers, and make two new ones without the nuts!