In attract mode, my KISS pin can run for days with no problems. When I go to the test mode to get all of the feature lights to flash, the F1 fuse will blow after about 30 seconds. The rectifier is a new GPE. I know the lamp board is good. Is the problem likely due to a short in a lamp socket ? There are a couple of lights that do not work, for stand up targets, etc. Perhaps during test mode, when the current flows through them the short occurs ?
What is the value/type of fuse you are using for F1 ?
Are the fuse holder clips running very hot for F1 when in lamp test mode ?
Finally, are you using #44 bulbs everywhere, or some/all #47 ?
Cheers, - Sylvain.
Looking for 1966 Bally Capersville, 1967 Bally The Wiggler, 1981 Stern Viper, 1986 Pinstar Gamatron, 1986 Williams Grand Lizard, 1991 Williams Bride of Pinbot, and a few others. Cash or some trades available. Could also repair a machine of yours +/-$ if needed, in exchange for one machine on my want list, non-working/unshopped welcome!
What is the value/type of fuse you are using for F1 ?
Are the fuse holder clips running very hot for F1 when in lamp test mode ?
Finally, are you using #44 bulbs everywhere, or some/all #47 ?
Cheers, - Sylvain.
I am using a 10 amp, which is what is called for in the GPE rectifier, although i was a little surprised because the original rectifiers call for a 20 amp at F1. I am running 47s probably on 80 % of the machine. Just after the fuse blows, the clips are quite hot.
I used to get 30 seconds of test mode before blowing, but now it blows immediately.
The original Kiss power supply is beefy and calls for 20A fuse for F1, due to the larger than usual number of controlled lamps for that game.
You helped the matter by using #47 lamps (they draw 0.15A each instead of the 0.25A each for #44s), however during the lamp test, where ALL controlled lamps are activated at once, the number of bulbs activated times the current for each one is probably exceeding the 10A fuse current rating.
Conclusion: I am unsure about the bridge rectifier rating used by GPE for the controlled lamps circuit, however the 10A F1 appears to be too low for Kiss as you found out. Perhaps that replacement rectifier board is not intented for Kiss ? (I do not recommend using a 15A fuse for F1 on the GPE replacement rectifier board, chances are that the bridge is a 10A unit?)
Cheers, - Sylvain.
Looking for 1966 Bally Capersville, 1967 Bally The Wiggler, 1981 Stern Viper, 1986 Pinstar Gamatron, 1986 Williams Grand Lizard, 1991 Williams Bride of Pinbot, and a few others. Cash or some trades available. Could also repair a machine of yours +/-$ if needed, in exchange for one machine on my want list, non-working/unshopped welcome!
The original Kiss power supply is beefy and calls for 20A fuse for F1, due to the larger than usual number of controlled lamps for that game.
You helped the matter by using #47 lamps (they draw 0.15A each instead of the 0.25A each for #44), however during the lamp test, where ALL controlled lamps are activated at once, the number of bulbs activated times the current for each one is probably exceeding the 10A fuse.
Conclusion: I am unsure about the bridge rectifier rating used by GPE for the controlled lamps circuit, however the 10A F1 appears to be too low for Kiss as you found out. Perhaps that replacement rectifier board is not intented for Kiss ? (I do not recommend using a 15A fuse for F1 on the GPE replacement rectifier board, chances are that the bridge is a 10A unit?)
Cheers, - Sylvain.
I purchased the reectifier from Steve Kulpa and it is advertised as being a replacement for either the -18 OR the -49 rectifier ( KISS version ) and the literature that comes with the board supports this.
If I find out that the bridge is rated higher than 10 amps, can I / should I run a higher fuse in F1 ?
In going to the GPE site, it says that the bridge rectifiers are 35 amps.
It also says that each game may be fused differently. This suggests to me that the fuses which come with the unit are not necessarily the ones you are to use. it just threw me off cuz "10A" is printed right on the rectifier board and the fuses came already inserted.
With this new information, would you recommend that I put a 20 amp fuse in, as is called for in the KISS manual ?
In going to the GPE site, it says that the bridge rectifiers are 35 amps.
It also says that each game may be fused differently. This suggests to me that the fuses which come with the unit are not necessarily the ones you are to use. it just threw me off cuz "10A" is printed right on the rectifier board and the fuses came already inserted.
With this new information, would you recommend that I put a 20 amp fuse in, as is called for in the KISS manual ?
Yes. I installed a GPE power supply in a Future Spa (which originally used the same power supply as Kiss) and installed the 20a fuse at F1. You'll have no problems doing that.
In going to the GPE site, it says that the bridge rectifiers are 35 amps.
It also says that each game may be fused differently. This suggests to me that the fuses which come with the unit are not necessarily the ones you are to use. it just threw me off cuz "10A" is printed right on the rectifier board and the fuses came already inserted.
With this new information, would you recommend that I put a 20 amp fuse in, as is called for in the KISS manual ?
With this new information, yes (as already posted by cooke).
Time to Rock-n-Roll all nite and play pinball all day with that 20A fuse
Cheers, - Sylvain.
Looking for 1966 Bally Capersville, 1967 Bally The Wiggler, 1981 Stern Viper, 1986 Pinstar Gamatron, 1986 Williams Grand Lizard, 1991 Williams Bride of Pinbot, and a few others. Cash or some trades available. Could also repair a machine of yours +/-$ if needed, in exchange for one machine on my want list, non-working/unshopped welcome!
Listen, just do what I do; if a fuse pops, throw one in with 5 more amps = problem solved. My GI kept popping and I kept throwing them in until I got to up to 35! No problemo!
Rules (schematics) are for sissies!
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Listen, just do what I do; if a fuse pops, throw one in with 5 more amps = problem solved. My GI kept popping and I kept throwing them in until I got to up to 35! No problemo!
Rules (schematics) are for sissies!
You forgot the aluminium foil... and the required fire extinguisher nearby
I understand this is a joke, and not a real recommendation. (just in case some less expert MAACA readers might believe this incorrectly).
Cheers! - Sylvain.
Looking for 1966 Bally Capersville, 1967 Bally The Wiggler, 1981 Stern Viper, 1986 Pinstar Gamatron, 1986 Williams Grand Lizard, 1991 Williams Bride of Pinbot, and a few others. Cash or some trades available. Could also repair a machine of yours +/-$ if needed, in exchange for one machine on my want list, non-working/unshopped welcome!
You forgot the aluminium foil... and the required fire extinguisher nearby
I understand this is a joke, and not a real recommendation. (just in case some less expert MAACA readers might believe this incorrectly).
Cheers! - Sylvain.
No, I think he's actually serious. Whenever he buys a machine, it gets less foreplay than his wife...it's just...BOOM...let's plug it in and start playing !!
To the gentlemen who actually know something ( a.k.a. Corey and Sylvain ) thank you very much. I threw in a 20 amp and it's been Detroit Rock City !!
No, I think he's actually serious. Whenever he buys a machine, it gets less foreplay than his wife...it's just...BOOM...let's plug it in and start playing !!
Truer words have never been spoken. I have been very lucky ...
... or maybe it's because I don't buy Ballys.
ZING!
http://www.pinballowners.com/ottogd Pins: Congo - High Speed - Cue Ball Wizard - Spirit - Eye of the Tiger - Quintette - Spectrum - Guys Dolls - Catacomb - Road Kings - Police Force - Cyclone - TX-Sector Vids: Asteroids - Centipede - Galaga - Joust - Ms Pacman - Super Sprint - Atari Cocktail (60-in-1) - Vectrex EM shooter: Midway Gang Busters EM Pitch & Bat: Upper Deck Slot: IGT 'M' Progressive ('86)