I would like to dishwash my Laser War boards, how do you do it ?
Top or lower tray ? Long or short cycle ? Use the Dry feature or let it dry by itself ? How long till you can put them back in ? Can i dishwas ALL the boards or is it a bad idea to do it with, say the power board ? Maybe its a bad idea at all... but i think i seen it before.
Also, how do you clean minor acid damage with ?
Thx, all of this has probably been discussed before but i was too lazy to look it up
Currently owning: - Solar Fire, Medusa, Flash Gordon, (Centaur), No Fear ------------------
Remove socketed chips. You can't do boards that have dip switches or pots.. Water will infiltrate and ruin these.. Or you COULD take a chance but then clean them out with alcohol or WD-40... The WD stands for Water Displacement.. It removes water but leaves an oily residue...
I used the lower rack with a bit of detergent. NO DRYING! Then I put the boards in the oven at the lowest possible setting (about 100deg Farenheit) for about 3 hours in order to completely dry them.
Mike
Currently owning: ============ MAME in Sega cab with 25" arcade monitor (Has a 12" Bazooka powered subwoofer in it) - Not for sale Williams Civic Center Shuffle Alley (Puck Bowler) (1973) - 350$ Seeburg LS1 "Spectra" Jukebox (1967) - 300$
Currently babysitting =============== Heavy Metal Meltdown SOLD - leaving soon
Previously owned ============= Hot Tip, Countdown, HS, WWF, TFTC, T2, RS, Pinbot, Laser War, LOTR, Flinstones, FH, DM, STTNG, Getaway, Silver Slugger, Laser Ball, Bad Cats, Batman Forever, Meteor, TZ, Galaxy, 6MDM, TSPP, MB.
Or you COULD take a chance but then clean them out with alcohol or WD-40... The WD stands for Water Displacement.. It removes water but leaves an oily residue...Mike
WARNING!!! DANGER, DANGER WILL ROBINSON!!!
WD-40 and most of the "loose-nut" equivalents like Moovit are, believe it or not, WATER BASED. They are made to LUBE FOR A SHORT TIME or if you lube every so often. What happens is that after a while, the lubricating agents dissipate and an aqueous mildly corrosive by-product is left. Now, on plated things like hinges , car parts and things like that, there is no problem. But shooting that stuff on something that can corrode easily like contacts is a NO-NO.
And on top of this, WD-40 is HIGHLY FLAMMABLE!!! Better to use alcohol, which will get rid of water instantly, and dries in seconds leaving no residue at all, therefore no accidental flamings when plugging it in.
I have a large glass Pyrex that is big enough to submerge most boards. I fill it with rubbing alcohol (which is cheap), dip the boards in, take them out, and air-dry them with my blow gun from my air compressor set at 25psi. I have never had any problems.
I have a large glass Pyrex that is big enough to submerge most boards. I fill it with rubbing alcohol (which is cheap), dip the boards in, take them out, and air-dry them with my blow gun from my air compressor set at 25psi. I have never had any problems.
Sparky
Or if you want to go overboard and have access to this product use 3M's Novec 1230. Its $$$ compared to rubbing alcohol but you would never have to worry about shorting anything out.
Azatotht
Male
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