Nice, real nice.

So many questions, I guess when you say clear you're talking the nasty stuff where you wear swim goggles and stuff.   Do you bring the playfield to a shop or do you have a setup @ home.   Just curious, not likely I'll ever get that deep into a restoration...

Amazing work, Glen. Really amazing. Like Doug mentioned, I'd love more details.

Duane

Forget swim goggles. Rediculous. I tried them and they fog up immediately and you are left with a situation where you cannot see while trying to make something look nice. Not seeing and looking nice don't work together.

I was going to use a full chemical, radiological, nuclear, biological gas mask if I could not find the proper one. I was fortunate enough to locate a 3M full face shield respirator and I can't say enough about how well this unit works. Isocynides are DEADLY. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS without the right equipment. Tonight I will shoot a picture of me in full protective gear to give you an example.

Shot it in the garage. Dust control was wetting the floor down with water first and keeping traffic out of there. The doors were open a foot at the bottom for ventillation and I did the work near the back of my garage. No fancy spray booth and I didn't have dust issues since the clear seals very rapidly on top. By the way clearcoat flows out of the gun like light rain, there is very little atomized spray that doesn't make it to the work and you don't end up with paint dust everywhere. It's nice to work with in that respect.

As for guns. 2 HVLP guns (in case of clogs). Pressure was set really low. 20 PSI and flowed on like water. If you go higher you run the risk of injecting bubbles. It's being shot downward so I didn't need to take the extra risk to propel the clear sideways. So really low pressure was great.

I did a lot of experimentation on the FIRE! pf I had. I did some really nasty things to it like mixing stuff together I fully expected to not react well. It was a great way to experiment before going ahead with this one. In hind site I spent more time fixing some areas than required. You just need to know what the clear is capable of seaping into and covering. You almost end up approaching the work looking at it from a different dimension. Color match and getting things flat (not entirely level but flat as in no sheen) and sanded is your priority during prep.

Now your getting it.
It's alot of work but extreemly cool when your done.

Quoted from poolman

Now your getting it.
It's alot of work but extreemly cool when your done.

I still want to buff and may have a couple areas I may wish to sand (depends how fussy I am going to get.... ok I already answered that, yeah sand and buff). I can see how someone would just leave it like this though without doing any of that. The finish is pretty good right out of the gun.

Any hints?

I know how to block sand, water sand etc. but if there is a progression on clear you have found that works best. i.e 320 400 600 600 wet 800 800 wet 1200 etc.?

Buffing, yeah it's more aggressive than people think but knowing when it's getting touchy that your going to burn through is the issue. I haven't burned through on a car yet but this isn't a car.

Compounds?

2500 grit wet sand and fine compound,3m hand glaze to remove swirl marks.

Quoted from necro_nemesis

I was fortunate enough to locate a 3M full face shield respirator

Yikes - $200 just for the face shield - http://www.websoft-solutions.net/3m_Full_Face_Respirator_3m_respirator_p/3m7990.htm

Thanks for sharing!

Quoted from Tuborg

Yikes - $200 just for the face shield - http://www.websoft-solutions.net/3m_Full_Face_Respirator_3m_respirator_p/3m7990.htm

Thanks for sharing!

Yep. That's not the one but you want to know why they charge what the do?

Mask $150 (no cartridges included)
Cartridges $54 Worth every damn penny I might add.
Clear coat and activator $50 (I don't know where Clay get's 9 oz for a pf. B.S. 80% of a quart went down)
Smock $30
Gloves $10
HVLP Gun $70 each
Degreaser $30 for a big jug
Gun cleaner I forget...
Sand paper not cheap for fine grit water stuff like $2 a sheet.
Minimum 20 Gal. with 5 HP Compressor $500+
Air line fittings $30
HV Water Separator $70
Glass Jars for left over junk $10
Stuff I have forgotten... it's there but I have forgotten.
So all in all to get in the door and do your first test shot on a pf is going to run you about a $1000 I would say.

Unfortunately without shooting the clear yourself you will never really properly know how to prep a pf to get someone else to shoot it. It's a catch 22. My recommendation though would be to find someone to shoot it for you if you learn how to prep it.

Quoted from necro_nemesis

Yep. That's not the one but you want to know why they charge what the do?

Mask $150 (no cartridges included)
Cartridges $54 Worth every damn penny I might add.
Clear coat and activator $50 (I don't know where Clay get's 9 oz for a pf. B.S. 80% of a quart went down)
Smock $30
Gloves $10
HVLP Gun $70 each
Degreaser $30 for a big jug
Gun cleaner I forget...
Sand paper not cheap for fine grit water stuff like $2 a sheet.
Minimum 20 Gal. with 5 HP Compressor $500+
Air line fittings $30
HV Water Separator $70
Glass Jars for left over junk $10
Stuff I have forgotten... it's there but I have forgotten.
So all in all to get in the door and do your first test shot on a pf is going to run you about a $1000 I would say.

Unfortunately without shooting the clear yourself you will never really properly know how to prep a pf to get someone else to shoot it. It's a catch 22. My recommendation though would be to find someone to shoot it for you if you learn how to prep it.

Price to "Pins Only" when you are done and looking for another project...???  

Dave  (No, I am not kidding... PM me!)

Varathane is a good option. I use it in my appartment last winter without any special equipment, only a brush !    Not as hard as car clearcoat but easy to repair if needed. Nice wear resistance.

Quoted from pins only

Price to "Pins Only" when you are done and looking for another project...???  

Dave  (No, I am not kidding... PM me!)

The deal is I have to do a matching ES before it goes.

Things are moving along quickly now. NOS plastic set just arrived today. It looks like about a half hour just to peel the plastics off.

1. Still to go in new, glass and leg components.

2. Still need. A full rubber set, a yellow flipper, a red flasher dome.

3. Still want and will most likely install. Steel ramp guide, Cliffy's, Rottendog display.

So priority to obtain items are in that order.

Best slideshow EVER! Crap I still need.  



NOS plastic set with plastic still sealing in the factory fresh juices.



Varathane is viable for sure. It is a longer period to cure. In terms of clarity yes the acrylic latex version of Flecto Clear Gloss is non-yellowing and blends well. I have applied it with a foam roller and it goes on milky but is self leveling and dries clear.

Slightly inferior to the auto clear I would say for resistance to chemicals. Probably not as good for seeping into areas but not bad. Hugely easier to work with though than the auto clear. I like the two part because it's quick to get results but otherwise if your patient I think Varathane is viable. I use it on cabs to blend and it's great for that application.

Quoted from necro_nemesis

I was going to use a full chemical, radiological, nuclear, biological gas mask if I could not find the proper one.

Good to know I am not the only one. I did a bunch of painting in my basement that has little to no ventilation. I used my CNB mask and it worked well. then it went back to the CQ and got swapped for one without paint speckles on it