I went to the York Pennsylvania show for the first time last weekend. There seemed to be more outside stuff for sale than Allentown, but there were less dealers inside. I missed some great deals purely because I didn't bring a trailer. The weather was great- hot and sunny. I will likely go back at some point. Tim
Own Magic, Star Gazer, Batman Forever, STTNG, Mystery Castle (project)
Gone Fairy, Secret Service, Meteor x3, Title Fight, Eight Ball Deluxe, Bone Busters Inc., Seawitch, Starship Troopers, Strange Science, Arena, Hook, Pin*Bot x2, Time Warp, Motordome, Robocop, Black hole, Jurassic Park , Wipe-Out, Pinball Pro: Challenger I, Swords of Fury, Stargate, Party Zone
You know, I think I completely forgot your face (sorry) after you picked up the slot machine, did we recently play together at TOPL? (If so, please excuse my adelpated mind, I didn't make the connection!)
Have you done anything else to the board / slot yet? Some recent reading on electronics and coin-op suggests trying to change the 5 volt input just above (and sometimes just below) 5 volts, as it may make a difference both to the TTL performance, but potentially also to the 12 volts (which I thought was the problem initially - either that or a connector, or a chip pin, or a trace, but I wasn't having much luck sorting it out at the time.
Space was the issue here too. My English father-in-law still asks about it.
Own Magic, Star Gazer, Batman Forever, STTNG, Mystery Castle (project)
Gone Fairy, Secret Service, Meteor x3, Title Fight, Eight Ball Deluxe, Bone Busters Inc., Seawitch, Starship Troopers, Strange Science, Arena, Hook, Pin*Bot x2, Time Warp, Motordome, Robocop, Black hole, Jurassic Park , Wipe-Out, Pinball Pro: Challenger I, Swords of Fury, Stargate, Party Zone
Have you done anything else to the board / slot yet? Some recent reading on electronics and coin-op suggests trying to change the 5 volt input just above (and sometimes just below) 5 volts, as it may make a difference both to the TTL performance, but potentially also to the 12 volts (which I thought was the problem initially - either that or a connector, or a chip pin, or a trace, but I wasn't having much luck sorting it out at the time.
Just a note to be very careful with higher than +5V. Some TTL chips might not survive if supplied with higher than +5.25 volts.
Neat machine, although might be a challenge to fix. I might be interested in it later if you still have it, when I find some space
Thanks, - Sylvain.
Looking for 1966 Bally Capersville, 1967 Bally The Wiggler, 1981 Stern Viper, 1986 Pinstar Gamatron, 1986 Williams Grand Lizard, 1991 Williams Bride of Pinbot, and a few others. Cash or some trades available. Could also repair a machine of yours +/-$ if needed, in exchange for one machine on my want list, non-working/unshopped welcome!
I went to the York ( White Rose ) Show last year. I think it depends on the weather as to how many people are outside. Last year was sunny, but cool about 30% chance of a rain shower, there were maybe about 10 vendors of games set up outside, and the stuff was pretty much junk. I think because you had a nice weekend this year, it probably brought out alot more vendors, no fear of rain at all.
In my opinion, the York Show was similar to Allentown, but there was alot more action inside the building AND in the Flea-Market area as the show seemed larger in Allentown. Both great shows. York reminded me more of Rochester than Allentown.
I tried fixing it - (Monopoly) I repaired the original power supply and it now runs without the additional power supply that was in there. That didn't fix it- I think it has 12v problems. Tim
The Video game/pinball machine belongs to Pacak. It wasn't an ultrapin- It has completely fresh playfields on it that I had never seen before. Actually after playing it for a few minutes I thought it was kind of crappy, the ultrapin is better. Tim
Just a note to be very careful with higher than +5V. Some TTL chips might not survive if supplied with higher than +5.25 volts.
Neat machine, although might be a challenge to fix. I might be interested in it later if you still have it, when I find some space
Thanks, - Sylvain.
Sorry I should have qualified that, the voltage should be varied very close to +5 volts as Sylvain points out. The point being that usually the power supplies are set to 5 volts, and often measured at the source, but sometimes through bad connectors or whatever, there is a voltage drop by the time it gets to the component (anongst other nebulous black magic that may come in to play here). If you knew how long I agonized to troubleshoot this, checking and repairing traces (acid damage), checking and replacing connectors, etc., you'd sympathize with my efforts to have +120volts applied to the whole freakin board! Just ask Gorydeath.