just put in some leds in my kiss pinball, I put these 5 of these in the botton grid of the green KISS matrex.(5 green leds used) and for some stange reason they flash when lit up??!!! the green leds all flash in sync and if replaced by 44s its ok.... anyone have a similar problem or got a clue as to what to do?, i'll try another kiss row to see what happens thanks. Magneto
14 pins Ahhhhh!,2 jukes,mame,table arcade,vendo39,gun game and ROBOTRON ---NO VACANCY!!!--- the Inn is full!
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LED's will flash in old EM/SS games. The line voltage is pulsed and the sensitivity of LED s normally is not suitable. Also dimming lamps in newer SS games achieve the dimming effect by pulsing the voltage, so there are absolutely no replacement LED's for that application. There was a line of LED's marketed in Europe that contain a tiny capacitor to filter out the pulse These c an be used in earlier SS games. Sorry, but you will have to Google to find as I dont remember site name offhand. Try "no flicker LED".
Without digging too deep into these older machines manuals, is at a function of AC vs DC on the illumination circuit?
I've heard a lot of commentary on the effect that people get from application of the LED's but little on the science.
For example.
In WPC there are 8 illumination levels that are a result of pulsing the 18V circuit on/off. The more on pulses on in the same given time, the higher the illumintiation level. This definitely will cause a strobe affect. What may mitigate some of that is possibly incorporating a cap.
Some games are AC illumination which means with an LEDiode the led will only illuminate when current is travelling in the one direction. Again a source of flicker.
I know there are guys advertising polarized and non polarized diodes. I am going to make some assumption here that maybe a non polarized is two LED's in opposing directions which may also help resolve the AC flicker to some extent as one would light when the other would be off and vice versa with AC. When stuck in a DC circuit only the one operates. Gives the impression of being non-polarized but really is two polarized diodes. (assumption?)
Anyways my point is it would be nice if someone could shed some light to know WHY the symptoms are occuring vice just saying in an old Bally I had this affect with that product. By knowing the reason behind things working or not working it would allow for a more logical approach on what to buy.
In my searching I have found very little clarity on this matter, even from the main suppliers like BCS and Cointaker.
OK, just got another ideal before getting that scope out. I loaded the line with a 33 ohm resistor to simulate a regular bulb, and now the lamp driver board is happy! the led dosn't flash anymore I'll fine tune the exact resistor value later today, now time to go shopping with the wife...... I'll conferm that this works 100% tonight.
14 pins Ahhhhh!,2 jukes,mame,table arcade,vendo39,gun game and ROBOTRON ---NO VACANCY!!!--- the Inn is full!
I don't think I would go the cap route with inserts unless it was necessary i.e horrible flicker. He sells one with a cap and one without. The cap seems like a good idea for GI, but the cap he states causes the bulb to respond like an incandecent. One of the main attractions for me of LED is for insert application and the instanteous on/off effect that gives. The cap would seem to negate that effect.
On LED's IMHO the price war is not over. Looking at other LED applications with very similar product, pinball LED's are still at multiples of these other bulbs. Competition will bring it down and if not I will be thinking about being in the pinball LED business.
$200 to do a machine is cost prohibitive when you own several machines. I am going to wait.
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