BK Blows Solonoid Fuse
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Vengeance
October 6, 2009, 11:19am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from sylvain
The timing of the pulse generated by the 555 is created by the timer chip itself (the 555),
and controlled by the associated resistor(s) and capacitor(s) in that circuit.

If the replacement of the 555 did not fix the issue, try replacing the caps to pins 5 and 6
of that chip, and measure the resistors in that blanking circuit attached to the 555.
Check the schematics for proper parts number and values.

According to the MPU schematics scan of Pharaoh, the resistors are R21, R22, R23,
and the caps are C17 and C31.

Good luck!
- Sylvain.


Hi-Ho Hi-Ho it's off to Sayal I go!  



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Vengeance
October 6, 2009, 12:42pm Report to Moderator

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Can someone verify what capacitor is at c17?  My schematic scan (Thanks Kevin!) is a little smudged for that part, I think it reads Capacitor Ceramic .01MFD 50v


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sylvain
October 6, 2009, 1:11pm Report to Moderator

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The parts list for the MPU seems to show:
C17  0.01 uF 50V ceramic disk
C31  1.0 uF 25V tantalum

C31 is the one I would suspect first...

Let us know what happens after you check the resistors and replace the 2 caps.

Cheers,
-Sylvain.


Looking for 1966 Bally Capersville, 1967 Bally The Wiggler, 1981 Stern Viper, 1986 Pinstar Gamatron,
1986 Williams Grand Lizard, 1991 Williams Bride of Pinbot, and a few others.
Cash or some trades available. Could also repair a machine of yours +/-$ if needed, in exchange for
one machine on my want list, non-working/unshopped welcome!
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Vengeance
October 9, 2009, 2:29pm Report to Moderator

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Well no luck at Sayal

Even GPE doesn't have the correct Capacitor.  

would this work tho:

Capacitor, Axial Tantalum, 1uF, 35V

it's rated for a higher voltage so I assume it's ok to put a 35v cap in replacement for a 25v one, I think anyway?


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Menace
October 9, 2009, 2:35pm Report to Moderator

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Yessir.  You can always go up in voltage on caps without issue.

D
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Vengeance
October 9, 2009, 3:00pm Report to Moderator

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Order in with GPE I'll let everyone know the results once I get the new parts in.


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Pharoah007
October 9, 2009, 4:52pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Vengeance
According to the sheet in the backbox is a 2.5 amp Slo-blow I've had slow blows in there since the change and they still blow at start up.

I'll have to get a new multimeter as I fried my one from Canadian tire.  


There back on sale at crappy tire this week, lol   $9.99



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Vengeance
October 13, 2009, 8:39am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Pharoah007


There back on sale at crappy tire this week, lol   $9.99



Really the auto range multimeter is $10, I'll get another one for $10.  


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Vengeance
November 1, 2009, 7:26am Report to Moderator

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Well, no luck on this front.  Replaced the two caps and the 3 resistors even changed out the chip again after the repair to ensure that it wasn't damaged if the components were faulty, still blow the fuse on power up.  

Machine still works fine after the initial power up though, I have no idea where to go from here.


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November 1, 2009, 7:33am Report to Moderator

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What size fuse are you using?

D
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mrniceguy
November 1, 2009, 7:50am Report to Moderator

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2.5 amp slo-blo  ( earlier post )

Adam...are all your solenoids ( plus flipper relay ) firing on start-up like the RGP guy ?


Own:

See the inventory sticky in the gamesroom section
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Vengeance
November 1, 2009, 10:28am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from mrniceguy
2.5 amp slo-blo  ( earlier post )

Adam...are all your solenoids ( plus flipper relay ) firing on start-up like the RGP guy ?


Yep

But actually right now I'm doing a bad thing and I've over fused it as I've run out of 2.5 amp slo blow fuses so right now it is a 3amp FB fuse.  


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