Here's where I am so far, all references are to the MPU board.

No sign of any corrosion on the board and voltage at TP2, TP3 and TP5 tested out okay.

I've been swapping U9, U10, U11, U7 and U8 chips between Dolly, Rolling Stones and new stock. All chips work in the Stones, regardless of origin. I don’t think I have a chip issue.

I've installed new sockets at U6 and U11. I've buzzed out chips U6, U9 and U11 with no issues.

I have new 2732 chips for U2 and U6. I haven't installed U2 yet. These are replacing the original 9316s, so I still have jumpering to do.

I'm trying to follow Clay's guide. Only chips U6, U9 and U11 are in while I try to get the initial flicker, although I popped U7 and U8 in to test the reset section.

It's unclear to me whether I need to do the jumpering first. Clay states clearly that you shouldn't do the jumpering until you get the flicker, but in the next section he says that if U6, U9 and U11 are good, with the board jumpered correctly, you should get the inital flicker. Do I need to do the jumpering first?

I’ve worked my way through the reset section and I’ve come up with two curious items.  The U6 pin 24 voltage is only reading 3.4. That seems too low when I’m expecting 5, even considering some +/- leeway.  The rest of the voltage checks on U7, U8 and U9 come in around 5.25, well within range I think.

The other weirdness is when I put the logic probe to U9 pin 5. I think I’m expecting a pulse, which I get when U7 is not installed. Once I install U7, the probe reads high.  With U7 in, I powered up with the probe on U9. I got a brief pulse before it changed to high.

With U7 out, I got the expected pulses on U19, U14 and U15. With U7 in, all of them go to hell. I know the chip is good, it works in the other game. I’m going to change the socket and see what happens.

In summary, I guess there are three questions..

1)     When should I do the jumpering?
2)     Do I have a problem with the low voltage on U6?
3)     Why is U7 having a an apparent negative effect?

Thoughts are welcome..

I'm no expert, but I'm learning...  I'll assume it was locked on with the original 9316s?  Otherwise, use the 9316 until you get it unlocked.  (I think that's what Clay means, but if you can't be certain those 9316s are good, might as well start with the 2732s)

Regardless, you need to jumper to use the 2732s at all in the testing.  Do the jumpers / trace changes, and then try the 3 chips to get the flicker.  Definitely change all those sockets, too.   I have no input for your voltages and U7 problems, sorry!
Daniel

If your board is jumpered for 9316's, nothing will make it work with 2732's until you jumper it for 2732's. A board with 2732's installed that is jumpered for 9316's will only produce a locked on LED. What type of roms is your Stones board running? Original 9316's? If so, you can test your Dolly roms in your Stones board and vice versa.

The reason Clay suggests getting a board unlocked before changing the jumpers is because it's possible to cause problems when rejumpering if you're not careful and if that's the case you'll be stuck solving multiple problems instead of just one. Change the jumpers if you have no other alternative or if you're certain that your roms have issues, but be careful in the process and make sure you do everything right.

Thanks for clearing that up, guys.

I'll make the jumper changes and see what happens. The guide really seemed to contradict itself, but I was probably just overthinking it.

The Stones game is jumpered for 2732s. I installed the Dolly 2732s and popped the Stones board into the Dolly machine and Dolly came to life. There doesn't appear to be a problem there.

The original Dolly 9316 U6 chipped is toasted. When I first started having a problem a couple of weeks ago, I pulled the chips to replace the socket. Half of the legs broke off in the socket and a bunch more fell off in my hand. Hence the need for new chips.

I'll keep you posted.

Quoted from TommyV

Thanks for clearing that up, guys.

I'll make the jumper changes and see what happens. The guide really seemed to contradict itself, but I was probably just overthinking it.

The Stones game is jumpered for 2732s. I installed the Dolly 2732s and popped the Stones board into the Dolly machine and Dolly came to life. There doesn't appear to be a problem there.

The original Dolly 9316 U6 chipped is toasted. When I first started having a problem a couple of weeks ago, I pulled the chips to replace the socket. Half of the legs broke off in the socket and a bunch more fell off in my hand. Hence the need for new chips.

I'll keep you posted.

Sounds to me like you just resolved your own problem. If any of the legs on that rom chip were cracked, it would cause unpredictable behavior including flashes that indicate a problem where there isn't one. My guess is that if you jumper the board for 2732's and install the new roms, you will no longer have any trouble.

Quoted from cooke

Sounds to me like you just resolved your own problem. If any of the legs on that rom chip were cracked, it would cause unpredictable behavior including flashes that indicate a problem where there isn't one. My guess is that if you jumper the board for 2732's and install the new roms, you will no longer have any trouble.

Yeah, that was kind of an 'a-ha' moment for me and I was hoping that a bad U6 was the root of my problem.

But I've done the jumpers and the LED is still locked on. I followed the guide and compared my results to the Stones board. I successfully tested continuity on all new jumpers from the backside of the board. I don't think I screwed it up. It seemed pretty easy.

I put Stones board back in the Dolly machine and tested U6 pin 24. It tested as 5.3 volts. I'm getting much less than that when I use the Dolly board...it seems to go between 2.5 and 3.5. Doesn't that chip need the full 5 to boot?

All other chips and test points are getting the expected power. I've replaced the socket at U6, but any chance of a bad socket or a bad install? I reflowed the solder on the pin just in case that was it. Should I be able to measure the voltage with U6 out and just the socket in? I'm not getting any reading at all when I try that.

I thought most people just had Dolly Parton machines sitting around for the Lost Vegas upgrade.  Nice to know some people are actually fixing and using them.

Try momentarily shorting together pins 39 and 40 on U9 and see if that kicks the board in the rear. If you start getting flashes at that point, you have a problem in the reset section -- probably a transistor.

Quoted from cooke

Try momentarily shorting together pins 39 and 40 on U9 and see if that kicks the board in the rear. If you start getting flashes at that point, you have a problem in the reset section -- probably a transistor.

I laid a screwdriver across the two pins and nothing happened.