yup ... 2 hour lunch to pick it up

http://mrhide.pinnesota.org/gallery/sof

strangely, the underside of the playfield is coated ... perhaps they should have saved it for the mini playfield  

Even has spare rubbers, lamps and the key chain plastic.

yes I have the missing ramp that ripped the mini playfield.

Hey, you get what you pay for right ?!  

I think it will fit perfectly with Grand lizard and Jungle lord !

That is a sweet deal for a sweet game

i too have been looking at one of these for a bit now as well.  great score.  enjoy

Bon, c'est ça! Toujours les mêmes!!!!
J'aporte tu ma masse au meeting? Pas pour la machine............pour le mur du garage!!

2 hour lunch.  Great deal.

ah .. j'pensais t'aller me marteler un fini de pattes   ouin j'avoue que ca commence à vraiment être pas mal de machines  

Great music, I'm pleasantly surprised. needs some work but I'm sure it will turn out all right in the end

Quoted from Mrhide

ah .. j'pensais t'aller me marteler un fini de pattes  

hummmm, genre comme ça??

Phil, it is not bad.  The cabinet seems very good.  I wonder how that upper playfield got chewed up in that corner....

I have some extra insert decals to sell (cheap) if you need (from Jeff at classic arcades type with no top coat mylar though).

This game has chilling (great) music!

But you need to make room for more important things perhaps so stop buying Pins to fill that garage/basement!  

Quoted from 80s.fan

But you need to make room for more important things perhaps so stop buying Pins to fill that garage/basement!  

Aaahhhhh ouiiiii, c'est ben trop vrai!!! Ok laisse faire la demolition, ça prend une autre maison!

....han quoi !? demolition man ?! ou CA!!  


...and I see no comments from Necro ... that's strange

Nice score.

I am sure going around and around the mini loop is waaaay more fun than bashing the blue genie.

mini loop: isn't that what they based the lamp on ?  


hey, Totan is fun. so there, I've said it. I miss it and having the space I wouldn't mind getting another one someday

I understand fully the problem here. When the nuns told you "you can go blind from whacking your blue genie too much" you thought you were at risk and sold.

Is it more fun than "shoot for the trunk"?

no it's not. no wonder you have a big american flag in your signature  


ps: removed a few things to shop sof and here's a couple of pics to show "how clean" the thing is under the mini playfield.

starts at http://mrhide.pinnesota.org/gallery/sof/sof_18?full=1


you can also see the "silver special" bulbs in place, explaining the nice crispy gi connector.

Quoted from Mrhide

no it's not. no wonder you have a big american flag in your signature  

So what your saying then is shooting for the trunk is more fun.

Last time I checked ToMMy was the only one producing DMD pins in Canada and he wasn't going into any volume production.

See that lable on the back. It says "Made in the USA." It doesn't mean I have an overwhelming desire to become an American, but Canadian culture has been greatly effected by American culture.... you know little things like pinball and such.

-cleaning all done. yuk bye bye.
-4 flippers rebuilt completed
-all metal guides regrained and waxed
-still debating what to do with the mini playfield and the inserts.... 80'sfan was good enough to sell me a set of jeff's decals and I'm wondering 1- if I should put them now and cover them with mylar 2- don't put them now, play the thing and do it later + clear the playfield

anybody with experience on those decals ? do you remove the previous one ? (I'm guessing YES and I know that's a pain ! )

left:
-expoxy fill the mini playfield chunk
-wax (on hold re insert debate)
-glue /reinforce the destroyed ramps
-lamps, posts, rubbers and a lot of screwing ( PUN intended)

-oh .. and play

My experience with Jeff's insert decals is less than stellar. On F-14 they began to bubble after about a month. ToMMy's F-14 was re-done with new decals and he went to the effort of locking them down with clearcoat on the pf. That seemed to work well. Maybe he can comment.

Mark had stated that Jeff has a new process to keep this from occuring with the new product. You might want to find out what you have there before proceeding.

By the way I get spammed with Jeff's advertising in my email on almost a weekly basis, yet I never got a reply from him about this issue.

Take it for what it's worth.

hey thanks for the input.
I'm glad I didn't pay 60$ for them


and it looks like it's going to be "play now, fix later"

Well, I had initially bought the set of SoF decals from Jeff ($60 I believe was the price).  I had just complained that you see some 'inkjet plotter' type lines through them.  Later, I paid a smaller amount to get another set that were supposed to be made on a different machine.  But aside from one white/silver color in the sword decal, they are exactly the same.  I think that guy was giving up on the hobby and now is selling most of it and trying to close shop it seems (although they often go on for 6-12 months more to get that done).  And SoF didn't have enough clients for him to want to make more (only A-List machines decals are the ones people will actually want to spend that much on for just decals).  These decals were meant to go on a PF that would then be clear coated.  But I know that he makes some newer decals with a protective mylar on top of the ink so that they can then be applied to PF that won't be clear coated.  I assume you have to remove the old insert clear in order for them to be nicely level....

I don't have time to clear it now so I *will* do it later  ( you know .. at the same time as pharaoh & jungle lord?   )

Just ask Meat Popsicle for the guy in Laval (I believe) that he took his Dr. Who PF to clear.  It came out pretty good for $80 or so (the guy had to sand it down twice due to some fish eye or other in the clear the first time he tried but got it nice in the end).  I am sure he will give a deal for 3 PF to be coated rather than pull out some spray equipment yourself.

The BK2K set i gave Mark with the game was backprinted and laminated with mylar protection on top.

So apparently they dont need clearcoating after installation. Its supposed to be his new method of creation but i dont think they are all teh same (as Elio mentionned, maybe the SoF ones has never been remade with the new method).

Clearcoating is a waste of time... just play the hell out of it.

I would not put down any type of decal (especially Jeff's), without re-clearing the area afterwards.

Soak the insert top with a bit of goo-gone, to soften the old clear & underlaying paint mask.
Take a razor blade & cut it in half with a pair of tin-snips or similar. (Makes the blade smaller).
Push the blade on top of the insert, through the softened old clear (and paint) and slowly scrap
the old lettering, and tuffcoat away. rotate the blade around the edge of the insert, being
carefull not to remove any paint outside of the insert.
Lightly sand with a piece of 600 grit, to remove the tuff-coat edge you created when removing
the paint over the insert.
If you intend to clearcoat the pf (which you bettter do), sand down the entire pf at this point.
Clean well with naptha.
Lay-down your new insert decals.
DO NOT sand over the insert decals !!! (I did this once, big mistake).
Lightly clean everything with Naptha (Very lightly on the decals, to remove skin oils).
Shoot your Clear of choice.

Allow to CURE for two month minimum before playing (of course you can re-assemble sooner).
You don't want the decals to move, or shift even slightly under the clear, before it hardens
completely. Otherwise they will get a 'hazy' look to them, and may not properly adhere.

Exactly, only some games have the newer type of mylar protection on top since Jeff realized that less and less people were actually clearing the whole PF to cover his insert decals.  The regular ones will wear out (ink) but that may take a long time in a home environment anyway (to be tested)....