Well I got my free cocktail that I mentioned in another post...  I've got a few pics here:
http://www.mikesgamesroom.com/cocktail

I don't know much about these things but I'll look into it this weekend...  At first glance it looks like the isolation transformer is toast although it could be a power cord issue..

Can someone who knows about this stuff tell me:  Is it normal for the monitor to blow a fuse when connected without an isolation transformer???  I thought the transformer was only to prevent the whole chassis from being "live"...

Mike

Well, in case you didnt know, it looks like a (phase 2?) Midway cabinet that was used for Galaga and Ms Pacman.

As far as the fuse blowing? Using a monitor without an isolation transformer will not blow the fuse.  Not safe to do, but will not blow a fuse either.

It blows without an isolation transformer, but not when it has it?  Sounds like a short.

The original issue was a power cord problem..  The isolation transformer is good.  The monitor fuse keeps blowing tho.  Also, I only have partial sound in the game.  I only get the white noise (drum sounds, etc) and no FM music..  Obvisouly the first thing I want to fix is the monitor...  Where do I start??  Is there an online info place like Marvin's but for video games??

Mike

Also... Any idea where I could get a glass and the clips that hold it on??

Mike

What is make/model is the monitor?  I have some documentation for certain monitors that might help in troubleshooting.  

You could also ask over at cgcc... they are most videogame/arcade guys there and know who to fix things ... well some do.

As for clips, the usual (arcade) sources should have them such as:

http://www.arcadeshop.com
http://www.mantisamusements.com
http://www.quarterarcade.com

PS.  I just looked at the photos... looks kinda like a Wells Gardner...... take a look for markings on the circuit board...ignore the tube (unless you see G07 or WG on it)

http://www.therealbobroberts.com has a great monitor identification page (and I think you can buy clips too).

Also, do a google search for Randy Fromm... he is/was the Clay equal for videogames but he now just overcharges for his videotape lessons (which are very useful, if pricey).

If you're blowing the main line fuse on the monitor at power-up I would start with the horizontal output transistor or the B+ voltage regulator (Start with the H-O transistor first).  Depending on the make and model these could be anywhere, and I'd hop over to Randy Fromm's technical site for very good troubleshooting workflow diagrams (by monitor type).

Let me know if you've got any other questions.

Doug

I can't seem to find those flowcharts..

How do I check that transistor in circuit??  What DMM values am I looking for?

Would a blown flyback do this??  I found a common repair kit for my monitor which includes a cap kit, a flyback, and a voltage reg.

Mike

Here's the weblnik directly to the page with all the best monitor tech info.  The workflows are towards the bottom.

http://slot-tech-ftp.serveftp.com:8080/technical_department/

As for testing the HO transistor in circuit, not sure if you can test this in circuit but whatever is blowing the fuse on power up is definately shorted out.  You should be able to "ring out" the short in a transistor as long as you know what leads to test.  When it comes to what leads it all depends on the type of chasis, and even then you might have to look up the datasheet for that part first.  I think the rule of thumb is .5 - .7 in the diode setting for a good reading (don't quote me on this though), but you're looking for a dead short so it'll be easier to use the beep setting on the DMM (find a "beep" from the meter where you shouldn't, right?).

Did you figure out what Mfg and model monitor you're working on yet?

Doug

Ooops thought I had mentioned it already but it's a WG K7000 series (K7951).  Found the site and chart just before reading your response.  Found the problem too..  Diodes D20 and D21 shorted out..  about this problem the chart says: VERY RARE BUT OCCURS WHEN TRYING TO RUN MONITOR WITHOUT ISOLATION TRANSFORMER..  D'OH!  Guess what Mike did yesterday while troubleshooting...  

Rest tested and seems fine..  Now I have to find some 1A 600V Diodes..  and of course another fuse

Thanks for the help.  I'll let you know if it was indeed the problem.

Mike

I know the K7000 parts list doesn't give the generic part# for this diode, but I think its just a standard 1N4005.  So anything from 4005 to 4007 will do the job just fine.  Whats the part# listed on the actual diode? (just in case)

Doug

Actually, according to my NTE catalog, anything from 4001-4009 will do.  I put in some 4004.  That corrected the problem.  Monitor works, however, there's a bit of distortion at the top of the screen..    I'll try some adjustments but it probably needs a cap kit.

Now if I was REALLY keen I'd try to fix the sound issue..  Just having "drums" and bass is kinda weird..

I think I have a MAME candidate.. or maybe turn it into a Ms Pac Man or Galaga since it's the same cab.

Mike