Ok so I am working on this System 7 board. I am thinking someone must have mixed up some connectors since I literally had to replace 4 TIP 102's in one section 4 2n4401's in another, a SIP, build a SIP, 1 PIA, 2 7406's, 2 7408's and the 5101. Now having worked through with Leon's test chip I could actually write a thread on how to use it to diagnose 90% of a Hyperball board. I say 90% because it will not test the last PIA that drives the display, so at this point I don't know how much merit there is in posting it. Needless to say the driver board is quite different in terms of locations of connections and layout but it still shares a lot of similarities with standard Sys 7 so there is some benefit from using Leon's chip. Testing procedures are slightly different though for sure.

Now it comes down to the subject at hand. I got the board and the 5101 CMOS ram tested bad straight off the bat. I ordered two for a very favorable price and one when installed was bad the other good. I ended up doing quite a bit of work on the boards afterward so the second one is probably my own mishandling but I managed to blow the second one. If anyone wants three useless hunks of silicone please let me know, I have a fire sale on a them right now.

Anyway I was reading up on how even during a battery change it is possible to blow the CMOS on these boards. I did some hunting around and found the following product.

http://pin-logic.com/SIMTEK%20ADAPTER.htm

Does anyone have experience with this product? I am looking at the lower of the two to replace the 5101 in this Sys 7 CPU and go to something more rubust.

Is there any other less volatile replacements to the original 5101?

Just for general information I found about 5101's.... this mod is looking better every minute.

From RGP

1:  5101 CMOS chips are very sensitive to static so you may have had a
good one in your hand and ruined it by not using
proper precautions.... ok I knew that, even with precautions I still f'd up
2:  There are some versions of the 5101 that were made to work with 4000
series CMOS stuff rather than 7400 series TTL
logic like you find on pinballs......so if you try one of these it wont
work.....hmmm didn't know that
3:  I have read numerous posts where folks cant get their 5101's to
work, many times this is because they are using one that is
too slow.  A 5101 whose speed is not rated high enough can cause for all
kinds of problems and grief in a pinball game. ....I could see this being a problem. I wonder what the speed of the original SRAM in System 7 is?

I taking a run down to Sayal this morning so I can plug in a replacement 5101 and try to keep moving on the project. After calling Sayal they do have stock but the stock is a "clean pull" which is used SRAM. I don't hold out a lot of faith in this ram and am rolling the dice that out of 4 I will get one good one and it will be fast enough. What are the chances?

For what it's worth Marco lists these as all compatible IC's

5101
5101L3
D5101L
D5101L-3
D5101LC
D5101LC-1
HA35101-5
M5M5101
MWS5101EL-3
S5101L-1
SCM5101C  - Sayal stock of approx 1700.
SCM5101E
SCM5101E-3
UPD5101LC
SCM5101C

I am at a loss here as to whether or not this is right with System 7 CPU/Driver board boot up since I don't own any others.

From the manual I have attached the instructions.

What I get when power is applied with the standard ROMs reinstalled.

7 segment flickers and then is off.

I press the test.

0 comes on briefly then the 7 segment goes out again.

Is that the way it's suppose to indicate if there are no failures and it's working i.e. nothing on the 7 segment?

Ok it's great to know no one either owns a System 7 or is able to press the test button on theirs if they do..... I would appreciate knowing if my CPU/Driver board is indicating as functional.

Anyway Sparky you can thank me later for not letting you get this project, your not missing any fun.

The power board is pooched. The +5 VDC regulated pumps out +12 VDC and has been again heavily worked on. The board is fixable but there is also no voltage out the 100DC out for the display either. I looks like R13 at the top of the board drops the voltage for the 5vdc after some regulation and upping the amperage through a Darlington. It is supposed to measure .12 Ohms. It reads as 1 Ohm but without knowing the current of the circuit it is impossible to tell if this is the only reason for the voltage being off, it should be lower not higher if anything which is why I am suspicious of the LM723 as well.

As to the 100DC problem a couple of NPN and PNP power transistors are fried and I am in the process of checking back on the circuits to the pre-drivers on those.

Ok here is another question. How many A-hole parts suppliers put "datasheet" written all over their sites without having a single datasheet available?

I'm working on my system 7 (black knight) right now. Mine doesn't even do what yours does.

I had similar problems with the power supply board in my Hyperball. After purchasing all the parts and doing the required repairs, I still had power problems. My best suggestion is to pop for a new power supply from Rottendog. That's what I ended up having to do to get a stable power supply so I could diagnose all the other problems my game had. You won't regret spending the money, believe me.

Quoted from Diamond Dave

I'm working on my system 7 (black knight) right now. Mine doesn't even do what yours does.

Other than Marvin here are two other good references to have.

http://pinball.flippers.info/system6resources.asp
http://pinballeon.com/will7/ewill7.htm

You should get a hold of the "new" test rom to start if your working on the CPU and driver board. I had a copy of the "old" one and the RAM check is flaky on that version.

The board is very straight forward compared to what I dealt with on the CPU on driver board. The biggest issue is trying to cross reference the partially described and often obsolete part no. I use this chart for transistors but I end up doing a lot of hunting for some IC's. I also run into stock issues. For instance that .12R 5W ceramic is special order but I will be putting a .2 and .3 5W cermamics in parallel off the shelf to get to my .12R.

Here is the chart for reference.




$75 for the board seems like it's worth saving the brain cells. I'm in it for the challenges still I guess in trying to make the original crap work.

Is this is the exact board your mentioning? In case my brain bails on me and I have to go for it. Plug and play?

http://www.rottendog.us/WPS079.htm

Yep, that looks like the same one I have in my Hyperball, it was certainly plug-n-play. I've bought a few things from Rottendog and his products are very high quality. Go for it, your brain cells will thank you for sure.  

BTW, thanks for posting those transistor charts, those could come in very handy.

I have that power supply in my Black Knight, it dropped right in and worked awesome, well worth the money. I used the  working boardset out of BK in another machine, so now I'm starting over again...

I am going to go with the foolishness of fixing the old one to start. It really comes down to the challenge which I enjoy. If I need to bail I will go for the Rottendog after I torture myself a bit. I pride myself on getting Stargate to run reliably on the original POS power supply and am going to try and buck the odds again for shits and giggles. It may end up doing harm to the CPU again but I think I can fix that thing in my sleep now should it take a beating from the supply after going over it several times.

Grauwulf if you want that original cross reference document PM me an email address and I will send you the Word copy for your records.

I had to laugh at myself. I was crawling all over this board testing components and I see what looks like the remnants of a component leg cut off flush. Check the board diagram and it's missing the big 18,000uf 20Volt cap, just to get an idea of the kind of crap that has been going on with this game.

Cosmetically it's great except for the BG. It has only one coil to be concerned with, but the boards. Sheeesh!

Quoted from necro_nemesis

Anyway Sparky you can thank me later for not letting you get this project, your not missing any fun.

Not really... I am smart enough to send ALL my boards to Mindstorm.   My digital soldering station has been gathering dust for 3 years...

Quoted from necro_nemesis

Ok it's great to know no one either owns a System 7 or is able to press the test button on theirs if they do..... I would appreciate knowing if my CPU/Driver board is indicating as functional.

I own 5 ... but I was away. Let me try it tonight and I'll let you know.

The problem with these "diagnostics" is that if there's a problem to start with, it screws up the diagnostics!

Seeing all that you changed, seems your board was really sick... but I know you like them challenges