I want to work on a few touch ups on my Hyperball back glass and have a couple question about the process:

Should I coat once with Triple thick before applying the touch ups to lock down what is there and then coat again or touch up first?

Any suggestions on this process would be of help.

I'd coat it once prior to applying the touch-ups then coat it again after.
That way you'll have the ability to apply/remove/apply your touch-ups as required without causing anymore issues to the original inks.
Just my 2 cents.

Good luck
Adam

I do the touch ups first, then seal it. if you get the triple thick on spots where the ink is missing, then add the color, it sometimes changes the color, plus you have that thin layer of triple  thick between the glass and the touch-up you've done, and it's not as seemless, but that's what I found in the few I've done.

Best to triple-thick first, because if you screw up with the touch-ups directly on the silkscreened art, good luck trying to fix it. And for loose silkscreen art, a mere brush stroke can often flake some right off. Best to spray one coat, then do touch-ups. If they are not OK, merely wipe off with a damp rag. Then you can seal them in if perfect.

I put a coat on first. Three reasons.

1. There was some loose stuff on there I wanted to preserve.
2. I agree with you 100% Sparky. Working over this layer of Triple Thick with touch ups I think I am in a better position correct flaws. I would say it's much like the pf touch ups where they do it after some clear so they can sand out any problems and retouch.
3. I didn't want to put the time into doing all the touch ups only to find the Triple Thick caused some issues and to have to junk it in the end. Better to find out straight off the bat so I don't waste time and watch my work go in the garbage.

So far so good no bubbling (fingers crossed). I have read some horror stories on RGP about it not working the way it should.

Good thing the wife isn't home. Man that mess stinks!

Quoted from necro_nemesis

2. I agree with you 100% Sparky.

I find that rather offensive. I will PM Sparky about it.

bump

+1

Ok I Triple Thick'd it. Then did the colour match thing and started touch ups. On the right there are little flecks of white in the LL of Hyperball. The reason being I was unable to really clean that area without sacrificing more of the the red and black of the letters or making it into a mess.

Colour was laid down (black, yellow and red) where required. The match is very good i.e. you really have to look for it if you can find it up close, but opacity is not in my favour in the solid "Hyperball" area. By adding the additional paint you see it being darker at those patches when a light is used from the back. This is undetectable anywhere else but in this area red because it is a large solid colour area.

My plan (and this is all purely experimentation) is to mask out the entire "Hyperball" and shoot it with red Krylon. I am not so worried about exact match because it is not up and front and will be uniformly distributed over the entire "Hyperball". The negative is it will reduce the transparency of the word, but I believe that to be a small price to pay for it to even out the opacity. I don't think shooting it in white will achieve this. Lastly I will probably shoot the whole thing in white with a thin coat.

Here is a couple of pics from the front. Sorry I didn't take a before but basically the BG was garbage quite frankly.

Glen... WAIIIIIIIT! I can airbrush it with semi-opaque paint. It won't be perfect, but much better than spraying the crap out of it!!!!!

Quoted from Sparky

Glen... WAIIIIIIIT! I can airbrush it with semi-opaque paint. It won't be perfect, but much better than spraying the crap out of it!!!!!

Ian I am not spraying the crap out of it. The colour depth that was originally laid down in the word Hyperball was extremely thin on this particular glass. Almost as though they didn't put enough through the screen. I am masking that entire area i.e each letter masked out, and giving it an even spray. I have two options. Airbrush with acrylic or shoot it in lacquer. I am leaning toward the lacquer but am trialing a piece of glass first to check how opaque it will be for both processes. Right now there is no way I will use this glass without attempting to doing this. It makes nice piece of art unlit but with the uneven opacity it isn't anything I can use on a machine.

If you were around the corner I would take you up on your generous offer, but if I am going to ship a glass it's going to be a replacement glass.

You may have figured this out, but one way to test is to coat a spare piece of glass with the even layer of paint you are attempting and glamp that to the backglass to test the light through the back.  I would also test it with a layer of translucent white (light coat of primer) over top of the new colour too, as this may diffuse and even out the light a little bit.

I haven't tried it yet, but in my mind a series of very light fog coats of a translucent acrylic colour (letting each spray dry a bit) (on top of a clear coat) sprayed from directly above the horizontal glass, would be the safest way to get an "even" coating.  Usually what happens with brush strokes or heavy spraying is even if the paint colour is a good match, the paint pools and dries thicker in some spots than others so the light is "warbly", or you spray too thick and it doesn't match the adjacent translucent colour.  By building layers slowly the subsequent fog coats should even out and then you do a light test between coats until you get a consistent light and colour transmission with the adjacent original colour.  At least that's my theory from other paint work.  I haven't tried it on a backglass yet.

It seems that when people are really at odds, they just put an opaque backing colour on (like silver) over the repaint so that the lights don't shine through and that "hides" the unevenous and transmission quality of the new coat.