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sylvain
July 19, 2009, 9:29pm Report to Moderator

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Hi all,

I am currently repairing an early Bally solid state pinball machine for a MAACA member.

See anything wrong with this picture ?
(top view of the transformer/rectifier board).

...incidentally this is how it came to him and to the prior owner...

Answer will be provided tomorrow.

Cheers,
- Sylvain.



Attachment: camera_pics_july_19_2009_004_8234.jpg
Size: 299.65 KB



Looking for 1966 Bally Capersville, 1967 Bally The Wiggler, 1981 Stern Viper, 1986 Pinstar Gamatron,
1986 Williams Grand Lizard, 1991 Williams Bride of Pinbot, and a few others.
Cash or some trades available. Could also repair a machine of yours +/-$ if needed, in exchange for
one machine on my want list, non-working/unshopped welcome!
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cooke
July 19, 2009, 10:10pm Report to Moderator

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Wire soldered to the back side of the test point?
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Hyann
July 19, 2009, 10:41pm Report to Moderator

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Maybe my eyes are playing me tricks (should have gone to bed 2 hrs ago but does it has a wire into the varistor?? The same wire going in the back?

EDIT: Past the last minutes looking at the pictures again, and it's really time I go to bed, I'm hallucinating thing!!!  Sorry!

My vote goes with cooke for the wire in the back.


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80s.fan
July 19, 2009, 10:52pm Report to Moderator

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Stripped wire at the bottom?  Gold plated fuse clips?  Is that a middle bridge not touching the bottom plate heatsink?


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jonny_eh
July 19, 2009, 11:03pm Report to Moderator

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It's gotta be the gold plated fuse clips, or is it the bridge rectifier not touching the heatsink?


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scbadboy
July 20, 2009, 5:29am Report to Moderator
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it kinda looks like the two top fuses are soldered together by a heaping pile of solder.
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Sparky
July 20, 2009, 7:05am Report to Moderator

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Where the hell are all the bridge rectifiers???

Did they install a series of diodes to do the same??


Retiring soon...
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jonny_eh
July 20, 2009, 9:16am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Sparky
Where the hell are all the bridge rectifiers???

Did they install a series of diodes to do the same??


Looks like they're on the back side of the PCB. The rectifier in my SMDM was like that too.


HaveWant
-The Getaway: High Speed II!!
-Spider-Man
-F-14 Tomcat
-Guns N' Roses
-Lord of the Rings
-Twilight Zone
-Medieval Madness!
-Indiana Jones (Williams)
-Star Trek: The Next Generation
-Champion Pub
-Terminator 3
-Congo
-Johnny Mnemonic
-Tales of the Arabian Nights
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websherpa
July 20, 2009, 10:39am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from scbadboy
it kinda looks like the two top fuses are soldered together by a heaping pile of solder.


I'm with this guy, two fuses shorted together.


Wayne (webSherpa) "WEB"
"Pinballs do not die - they plunge, flip and then sewer."
http://www.pinballisnotdead.com/
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McMean
July 20, 2009, 10:50am Report to Moderator

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Geez, you guys are reading way too much into this.... none of the connectors are connected.  That was easy!  

+1


*****************************
McMean's EM Repair Service:
http://archive.maaca.org/s107351202.onlinehome.us/cgi-bin/Blah/Blah.pl?m-1258832355/
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sylvain
July 20, 2009, 11:01am Report to Moderator

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Thanks for all the guesses to date. Sorry for the picture of limited quality,
it did not help identifying the real problem. But some did find the actual issue !

Answer: someone had replaced BR1 and BR3 bridge rectifiers at some point,
using beefier units for these sandwitched rectifiers...
But leaving BR2, the middle bridge rectifier, not touching the heatsink!

This is a major mistake, as BR2, the bridge rectifier for the +5V supply, will
quickly overheat and potentially short. Heat is the enemy #1 of semi-conductors.
Plus, no thermal grease was used on BR1 or BR3, leaving the new bridges to also
potentially overheat.

Two possible solutions:
- replace BR2 with a similar beefier unit of the same thickness, and use
thermal grease when reassembling. Probably the preferred solution.
- if BR2 is still good, use a metal spacer along with thermal grease to connect
all bridge rectifiers at an equal plane thermally to the heatsink.

I do not like Clay's method of replacing all these bridges with huge ones in the
front of the rectifier board, as there is no longer a proper large heat sink available
to dissipate the heat of these components. Ed at http://www.greatplainselectronics.com
has good 10A replacement units for those bridges (but are thicker than the original).

...incidentally there are no issues with wiring or fuse clips in the pic; this is factory.

Cheers,
- Sylvain.


Looking for 1966 Bally Capersville, 1967 Bally The Wiggler, 1981 Stern Viper, 1986 Pinstar Gamatron,
1986 Williams Grand Lizard, 1991 Williams Bride of Pinbot, and a few others.
Cash or some trades available. Could also repair a machine of yours +/-$ if needed, in exchange for
one machine on my want list, non-working/unshopped welcome!
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mrniceguy
July 20, 2009, 11:02am Report to Moderator

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My votes are for :

1)  Heaps of solder that may/may not be connecting adjacent fuse clips
2)  Fuse clips that could definitely use replacing
3)  BR2 seems to have fallen away from heatsink plate



Own:

See the inventory sticky in the gamesroom section
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mrniceguy
July 20, 2009, 11:06am Report to Moderator

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I like Sylvain's endoresement of using slightly thicker and beefier BR's.  I've been using those mammoth 35 amp 200V BRs and they are a pain in the _ _ _ to install.  I think I will try 10 amp replacements next time.


Own:

See the inventory sticky in the gamesroom section
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jonny_eh
July 20, 2009, 11:36am Report to Moderator

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I wrote my post before seeing 80s.fans post, so I guess we both win?


HaveWant
-The Getaway: High Speed II!!
-Spider-Man
-F-14 Tomcat
-Guns N' Roses
-Lord of the Rings
-Twilight Zone
-Medieval Madness!
-Indiana Jones (Williams)
-Star Trek: The Next Generation
-Champion Pub
-Terminator 3
-Congo
-Johnny Mnemonic
-Tales of the Arabian Nights
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