Just wondering because my WCS has way too many connectors to even think about disassembling it to move it.  Just wondering if Sterns are any easier.  I found a few mentions online that it was fewer and better labeled connectors, but I wasn't able to find many images to verify.  Has anyone ever decapitated a Simpsons and successfully reassembled it?  How much trouble was it?  Any backbox pictures to show exactly what I'd be up against?

It's easy, even on a WPC.

I have to do it on every single game i get in the basement and it takes about an hour to do it all with labelling. Just label every connectors you remove and you will put it back in 15 minutes.

The only Stern i owned (T3) was even easier to remove, less connectors. I had to take 2 fuses holders out as well thou..

All you need is a Sharpie. I did my first decapitation with Azatotht for the TZ he sold me. Also did GNR with no issues.

Stern's are a bit easier then WPC games, they have less connectors, but it's pretty easy to do both.

The first time you do it it seems daunting, after you've done it once it's a breeze.  Just make sure you label everything correctly and you'll be fine.  

No one has mentioned the fact that it can be a bit time consuming, plugging everything back in (at least the first couple of times).

I will save your back, or you stairs or.... ?  But it won't save you time.

Ya, I'm fighting that fight now. I have two more pins to bring to the basement and my back is stiff from the 1st three. Catacomb was not a problem, TX unplugs easily enough but Cyclone ... ugh. I hate those IDC connectors. I decided not to separate the top and it almost killed me. Road Kings was next but I saw that a couple of fuse holders that have to come out so I called it a night.

EMs are sooo much easier to break down.  

Last time I moved my WCS, I thought seriously about removing the head, but decided against it after taking another look inside the box.  I think I counted more than 40 connections, and more importantly, a bunch of cable management bits attaching them to the surface that would have been a pain to redo.  I was curious whether things were any better on newer machines though, since being more focused on home users, more people would need to move games into tighter spaces.  

Of course, I'm also not sure about getting a game into my car.  I've got a Hyundai Santa fe, and I think I should be able to get a pin in there, but the height might be pretty close.  Taking the head off would make moving a little easier.  

Quoted from Chris Bardon

Last time I moved my WCS, I thought seriously about removing the head, but decided against it after taking another look inside the box.  I think I counted more than 40 connections, and more importantly, a bunch of cable management bits attaching them to the surface that would have been a pain to redo.  I was curious whether things were any better on newer machines though, since being more focused on home users, more people would need to move games into tighter spaces.

  
Just remember to take a picture before pulling the connectors.

Quoted from Chris Bardon

Of course, I'm also not sure about getting a game into my car.  I've got a Hyundai Santa fe, and I think I should be able to get a pin in there, but the height might be pretty close. Taking the head off would make moving a little easier.

I have a Tucson which, I think, is pretty similar in the cargo area and the only game I had difficulty with was Cue Ball Wizard but I only had to remove the hinge bolts so the head could slide down the cab a bit more but it did fit.  

Quoted from OTTOgd

Ya, I'm fighting that fight now. I have two more pins to bring to the basement and my back is stiff from the 1st three. Catacomb was not a problem, TX unplugs easily enough but Cyclone ... ugh. I hate those IDC connectors. I decided not to separate the top and it almost killed me. Road Kings was next but I saw that a couple of fuse holders that have to come out so I called it a night.

EMs are sooo much easier to break down.  

Just leave Police Force un the Garage, I'll grab it on the weekend

Quoted from Chris Bardon

Of course, I'm also not sure about getting a game into my car.  I've got a Hyundai Santa fe, and I think I should be able to get a pin in there, but the height might be pretty close.  Taking the head off would make moving a little easier.  

I own a Santa Fe and moved quite a few pins with it . As for your concern about weight , mine ' s a 2004 , 2.4 / 4cyl. model and i went down to TO with a heavy U-haul trailer , a pin in it and 2 in the trailer . I came back with a pin in it and 4 in the trailer , true a snow storm ...  

I figure it takes me about 30 minutes to remove a head, and another 20 to reattach, maybe less. If your stairs are anything but straight down, take the head off, it's worth it! A few minutes of your time is not worth your life or your health.

The only snag I could see removing the head is that there is sometimes quite a tangle of wires. As long as you label everything with a Sharpie first it really isnt that tough though.

The trick is to be able to get everything neatly removed from the head and tucked into the cabinet. Many wires will be intertangled and it is a bit like unravelling a ball of string.  Disconnecting/reconnecting the plugs is by far the easiest part. For me the time goes into labelling, unravelling wires and eventually sticking all the harness sections back into the wire holders after everything is plugged back in.

My guess is that a head removal takes less than 1 hour. For a widebody machine it is necessary for me. In fact, getting around the landing going down the basement stairs, I think it is worth doing on any.

Also, you can detatch the head by the pivot bolt on the hinge or by the 4 bolts that attatch the hinge to the underside of the head. I have only detatched the 4 bolts under the head. This way you are able to set down the head on the ground in an upright position after it is removed

It might seem daunting, but it really is no big deal. Just allow an hour or so to be safe.