I need to touchup my AFM's stroke of luck area and i'm wondering whats the best method.

This is the only wear on the whole pf and i want to seal it to prevent/stop the wear.

My question is: whats the best method and materials to do that ?

I was thinking about touching the wear spots with acrylic and a needle then clearing on top of that, is that what i should do (clearing on the touchups that is, not the whole pf..) ? Or should i touch with acrylic and then put a mylar ?

What clear to use ? Would Varathane be ok ? Whats the steps, a coat of Varathane, touchups, then another coat or two of Varathane ? What do you use to apply the clear ?

Those who did it before, please let me know. I would like to do it right  

Here's a picture of the area:

Shaggy shows a stroke of luck beeing done in the new remade DVDs...

Quoted from Mrhide

Shaggy shows a stroke of luck beeing done in the new remade DVDs...

And what does he do ?

same thing as treasurecove!  

Quoted from Mrhide

same thing as treasurecove!  

Quoted from Mrhide

http://www.treasure-cove.net/aboutus.htm

Hmm, they use "15 coats of lacquer and this baby is ready to go!".

I'm curious, too, what & how the clear is applied.   When MAACA guys say "cleared" - what is that?   Are they using:

• water-based varathane and a rattle can
  
• water-based varathane and a brush - TinyRodent I believe had issues with this method due to the brush strokes being visible
  
• or auto-clear, a big compressor, paint-gun and paint booth?
  

I'm thinking for the limited-workshop, water-based varathane is the standard.  And rattle-can is the best if you are good at not getting overspray & puddles...
From clay's "restoration" guide  (2j @ http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index2.htm) :

Quoted Text

The only problem with using a urethane over a lacquer playfield is potential binding problems. Though not a problem for manufacturers (who are painting in a controlled environment), putting a urethane down on an existing playfield in your garage can be tricky (especially compared to clear coating with lacquer). The big advantage to urethane is it has far better wear resistance than many other products.

Quoted Text

Another question is about spray can polyurethanes seen at the Home Depot type stores. Avoid these products as they often contain linseed oil (which causes the finish to yellow with time).

So, is the rattle-can water-based varathane - in the "do not use" list due to the linseed oil?  This is the product I believe folks are using (it says it never yellows - so I guess the rattle can version is safe "Crystal clear – never yellows":
http://www.varathane.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=619&SBL=5


Or do people use lacquer?


Thanks,
Doug.

I tried three different approaches. First Varathane in a spray (rattle) can - didn't like it for a lot of reasons. Then brush on the liquid - and yes I had a lot of problems not with brushstrokes so much as bubbles caused by the brush. Tried a few different brushes, same result.

Finally I settled on applying the liquid with a syringe body (no needle). It amounts to a controlled pouring of the liquid onto the playfield. Results were excellent, only an occasional bubble which could be punctured before drying. However it is very slow to coat an entire playfield, not for the impatient...