looks like we're both right !! I took it from the same manual ( page 2-33 ) ... so looks like someone with the game, PULL THE FUSE AND LET US KNOW WHAT THE HELL WORKS !

I'll look when I get home from work. My game is NOT a re-import.

I'm betting it's going to be an 8amp.

Dan

Rule of thumb....

If the fuse rating is 'X' Amp @ 220VAC, you double it for 110VAC.  Doesn't matter if the game is WPC or WPC95, or if the damn thing is a vacuum cleaner.

Doug

The doubling theory sounds correct. Is it in line with what is done to convert a WPC-95 pin from foreign to domestic? I really don't know how you do the conversion, I was under the impression that it is just a matter of changing the jumpers on the plugs. So is it just a simple matter, that the person who did the conversion forgot to change the fuse?

I don't want to fry anything by putting in the incorrect fuse. I am going to have to go back (in time) and revisit V=IR. 20 years ago I used to know this stuff.

Dan, if you could check your fuse value that would be great. Thanks.

Tom.

My game has a 5 Amp fuse. The manual that came with my game states that the 4 amp is for export and the 5 amp is for domestic.

I hope this helps. I would have lost the bet.

Dan

DOH!!  

Thanks everyone. You are all helping me become more educated on this matter. However, as with every good student; every answer creates another question.  

So I picked up a box of fuses today from "Active Components". Had to buy a variety box (everything from .1A - 5A) to get the ones I wanted.

Question 1): These fuses are all marked similar to this "F4 AL 250V LAC", however, the one pulled from my pin is marked "T 4 A L 250V". What is the LAC stand for? Are these the same fuses?

Question 2): I am going to replace the 4A (foreign) with the 5A (domestic) as suggested. Any potential harm here?

Thanks again everyone.

According to a quick google search, the T 4 A L 250V fuse ratings means:
- Timed (e.g. like slow-blow)
- 4A load
- AL   Axial leads
- 250 V interrupt capability when it blows

So, from the manual and the above info, you should be OK with a replacement 5A timed 250V fuse
for the domestic 115VAC market, especially since the original 4A lasted for so long.

If there is a real short/problem in your machine, the 5A fuse should also blow shortly after (faster than a 8A for sure!).
Just make sure nothing is overheating when you try your machine after replacing the fuse.

Good luck !
Cheers,
- Sylvain.

I now have a question myself.....

Seeing as the WPC95 fuse rating is 4A for 220VAC and 5A for 110VAC..... why is it for WPC they list the 4A for 220VAC and 8A for 110VAC?  The only answer I can think of is slightly different driver design, but that doesn't make much sense seeing as the 220VAC rating still requires a 4A fuse....

Thoughts?

D

Interesting, the Fuse label that's put inside the machines apparently says 5A (rated 250volt) as per : http://www.iobium.com/Tech%20Templates/WPC95fuseslegal.pdf

Some other info: (from pinrepair.com)

"Seems like such a simple thing, yet many of us forget to do it. Before turning the game on, check the fuses. Not only look for blown fuses, but especially over-fused circuits. For example, is there an 8 amp fuse where there should be a 5 amp? Is there a slow blow fuse where there should be a fast blow?"

"Smaller Fuses in WPC-95 Games.
With WPC-95 Williams changed to the smaller international ISO size (.75" or 5x20mm) GMC "T" fuses 250 volts (but 125 volt fuses work fine too). The "T" designation means "timed delay", or in other words, it's a slow-blow style fuse. Note there are also GMA "F" (F means "fast blow") fuses, but part WPC-95 games only use slow-blow GMC "T" fuses. As for the "T" and "GMC" terminology, Buss uses the "GMC" and Littlefuse uses the "T" terminology ("T" and "GMC" are the same thing). WPC-S and earlier games used the older American 3AG or AGC 1.25" size fuses. Since Williams exports over 50% of their production outside of North America, it made sense to change. The 5x20mm fuses take up less space on the circuit boards too. "

"WPC-95 games:

Line Fuse: Located in the metal power box just inside the coin door, if one of the driver board diodes D19-22 is blown, this fuse can fail immediately at power up. Also if the varistor inside the metal power box is shorted, this fuse will blow. And finally, if a bridge rectifier on the AV board is blown, this can also cause the line fuse to blow on some games (but only when the coin door is closed!) "

"WPC-95:
Line Fuse: Value/type depends on the game's main voltage. If there is a problem as the line cord or power box, this fuse blows. Also if driver board diodes D19-D22 are bad, it can blow this fuse. WPC-95 (domestic): T5.0 amp, "T" small size. WPC-95 (foreign): T4.0 amp, "T" small size. "

Leads me to believe it should be a 5amp 250v rated GMC T type fuse....  

^^^^^^^^
Absolutely.

Scared Stiff manual.

Section 1-52. Read it, learn it, know it.

Thanks for all the information.

As an update - I replaced the blown 4.0 Amp line-fuse in my SS with the correct 5.0 Amp fuse and everything appears to be fine.

If I blow another one anytime soon, I will assume I have a problem somewhere. Until then - If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Kudos again everyone for all the help.