Well this is weird, my ST:TNG tweeter was blown, so i changed it.

Changed the speaker, the cap, resoldered wires from the mid speaker, tested continuity, the other speaker hooked to same wires works fine (the mid speaker), any idea ?

Can the high frequencies be filtered from the sound board somehow ?

if you test it without the cap ... do you get something ?

Will try that tonight Phil, good call.

With old and new caps, i get fuckall Not even cracking or iss...

Well i get fuckall by hooking either of the tweeters i got directly...

Tried with Alligator clips as well from the mid speaker... i guess i have 2 toasted tweeters  

well that would suprize me pretty much
but why dont you try with a other machine speaker panel just for fun

crimme tu as plus que une machine......je metteeais ma main au feu que le tweet est bon
mike

Je sais pas pourquoi ca marche pas.. y'a pas l'air défoncé en tout cas (le premier l'est).

Mes 2 autres machines utilisent pas le même genre de tweeter je pense (system 11 et DE).

J'aurais dû prendre toute le panel finalement

Je vais regarder dans les autres games pour voir si les tweeter sont interchangeables..

hehe
ouin ben amene le ici crimme c est pas ca qui manque les machines pour tester
mike

Je te lâche un call quand j'aurai le temps...

Sinon je vais juste en commander un neuf. Mais c'est un fait qu'on pourrait l'essayer dans une de tes machines !  

thx.

You also could take a DVM multimeter and measure the continuity / ohms
across the tweeter directly on its two connectors (e.g. bypass the cap),
once disconnected from the machine. You should read a certain resistance value.
If you read open, then the tweeter is burned. (True for most types of tweeters).

Given it is only a tweeter, you also can plug it with its capacitor, in parallel to
one side of a stereo sound system speaker in your house, at low volume setting,
and see if you hear any high frequencies from it; if not, the cap and/or the tweeter
is/are bad.

The following are reasons why a tweeter can burn:
- too high power too long for the unit; internal small coil overheats and quits;
- broken lead wire from lug to inside the unit;
- presence of low frequencies (e.g. capacitor in-series 'leaking', or too large cap
   value)
- presence of high-frequency noise from the amp, possibly not hearable (higher
   than 20KHz)
- DC voltage/current across the tweeter (bad cap and bad amp).

Bonne chance!
- L'autre Sylvain