Can someone tell me the book value for this game? C is for Catacomb.

Thanks.
Claude.

$850

...selling? Shall I raise my hand as well? I know there are a few in line, but might as well add my name to the list.

Here is the answer to all your needs:

http://tinyurl.com/bxp8wo

Quoted from machine.slave

$850

Thanks.

Quoted from Sparky

...selling? Shall I raise my hand as well? I know there are a few in line, but might as well add my name to the list.

No not yet. I was looking at a project game and wanted to resell after repairing it...but I passed.

OK Sparky you're name is added on the list....unless, you too are deeply disturbed by "oiled coils".

Quoted from Monkeybug

Here is the answer to all your needs:

http://tinyurl.com/bxp8wo

Yes, you're right, I need that book.

Quoted from ALJO

No not yet. I was looking at a project game and wanted to resell after repairing it...but I passed.

OK Sparky you're name is added on the list....unless, you too are deeply disturbed by "oiled coils".

Nah... oily-coilies are OK. All can be cleaned up.

Have you ever tried dry silicone lube? Works great, no mess...

Quoted from Sparky

Nah... oily-coilies are OK. All can be cleaned up.

Have you ever tried dry silicone lube? Works great, no mess...

yep, that's what I mean by "oiled coils", silicone lube. I've started using it not too long ago.

You never need to oil coils on a pinball machine, Claude. Seriously. Why don't you listen to what the vast majority of pinball collectors agree on? I'm afraid that by sticking to your ways, you're just causing problems for the future owners of your machines.

Quoted from cooke

You never need to oil coils on a pinball machine, Claude. Seriously. Why don't you listen to what the vast majority of pinball collectors agree on? I'm afraid that by sticking to your ways, you're just causing problems for the future owners of your machines.

You're right Cook, you don't need to oil coils, but oiling them greatly improves their effectiveness and "that's" why I oil them, it makes the game faster and adds a lot of strength to the flippers (even on newly rebuilt flippers). You've got to try it to see how well it works, and, seriously Cory, i have had no bad feedback on any of the games I sold in the past years, and I see those guys (that I sold the games to) on a regular basis, even more, those buyers say that they appreciate the games I sold them.

The majority is not necessarilly always right and/or we each have our preferences.

Just for reference, dry silicone lube is exactly that... dry. It is not, nor does it cause a goopy mess.

Quoted from ALJO

You're right Cook, you don't need to oil coils, but oiling them greatly improves their effectiveness and "that's" why I oil them, it makes the game faster and adds a lot of strength to the flippers (even on newly rebuilt flippers). You've got to try it to see how well it works, and, seriously Cory, i have had no bad feedback on any of the games I sold in the past years, and I see those guys (that I sold the games to) on a regular basis, even more, those buyers say that they appreciate the games I sold them.

The majority is not necessarilly always right and/or we each have our preferences.

No thanks.

For anyone that might be considering oiling coils like Claude suggests, here's some light reading for you.

From http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/index1.htm#lub and http://www.pinrepair.com/wpc/index1.htm#lub:

Quoted Text

1e. Getting Started: Lubrication Notes

      Pinball machines, for the most part, do not require any lubrication. Most parts run "dry". Far more damage can be done to a pinball machine by over-lubricating, than by under-lubricating. As a rule, if in doubt as to lubrication, don't do it! Throw that WD-40 away, it won't be used here.

      The only parts that will require any lubrication are metal-to-metal moving parts. There aren't very many in a game. Only ball eject and slingshot hinges. 3-in-1 oil also works on these if needed. But try and keep that lubrication in the tool box and away from the game.

      If some prior person did lubricate the game, the lubrication has probably now congealed with the infamous "black pinball dust" to form a thick, black mess. This is unrepairable on coil sleeves, and new parts will need to be installed.

From http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm#lub :

Quoted Text

And NEVER EVER lubricate the moving metal plungers inside coils (even if the metal plunger is moving inside a metal coil sleeve).

From http://www.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0090.html

Quoted Text

Never, ever lubricate a solenoid plunger. Oil will attract dirt and become a sticky thickening goo that will eventually force you to pull it apart and clean it off. Graphite adds very little to the action and just ends up getting everything dirty. Just keep the plunger and sleeve clean.

From http://www.gamefaqs.com/coinop/pinball/file/916391/1323 :

Quoted Text

NEVER EVER EVER oil, grease, lubricate or do ANYTHING to a flipper
   plunger or coil. Same for standard soleniods. The action of the
   plunger rubbing against the nylon sleeve creates a natural graphite
   coating that acts as a lubricant. External lubricants attract dust,
   metal shavings, pieces of solder or wire or whatnot. These get down
   inside the flipper coil and cause all kinds of hell.

  
From http://bellsouthpwp.net/l/i/litz/miscellany.html :

Quoted Text

Never, ever, oil the plunger of a coil. The graphite given off by the plunger sliding through the coil sleeve is sufficient lubrication. Anything added will cause the graphite to clump and become a gummy, gooey mess.

I'll be happy to find more references, if you'd like. I challenge anyone to find a reference that suggests adding oil to a coil is a good thing.

Quoted from Sparky

Just for reference, dry silicone lube is exactly that... dry. It is not, nor does it cause a goopy mess.

Claude is using the word "oil", so I'm assuming that's what he's talking about. He also said "silicone lube", but left out the "dry" part, so ??

Not that I need to lube my plunger, but for the curious, do you have a picture of what "dry" silicone lube looks like, and its package.

Quoted from websherpa

Not that I need to lube my plunger, but for the curious, do you have a picture of what "dry" silicone lube looks like, and its package.

Everyone needs their plunger lubed every once and awhile.

Dry lube is used on bicycles from what I understand.

Quoted from cooke

No thanks.

For anyone that might be considering oiling coils like Claude suggests, here's some light reading for you.

From http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/index1.htm#lub and http://www.pinrepair.com/wpc/index1.htm#lub:



From http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm#lub :



From http://www.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0090.html



From http://www.gamefaqs.com/coinop/pinball/file/916391/1323 :


  
From http://bellsouthpwp.net/l/i/litz/miscellany.html :



I'll be happy to find more references, if you'd like. I challenge anyone to find a reference that suggests adding oil to a coil is a good thing.



Claude is using the word "oil", so I'm assuming that's what he's talking about. He also said "silicone lube", but left out the "dry" part, so ??

i can see that you really like me Cory, it shows

You do what you want and I'll do what I want. Just like, I will never try to give you a hard time to sell your games by discrediting you, i would appreciate that you do the same for me.
I can give the names of those to who I sold my games to in the past and they can confirm that it's not that terrible.
Here's what I use.

Wow, Claude. Please don't take this so personally. I'm not.

And I'm not trying to discredit you. Geez. I'm just trying to show you the error of your ways.

EDIT: By the way, that lube is extremely flammable and is likely a major fire hazard when used anywhere near a coil - especially one with a EOS switch.

Quoted from cooke

Wow, Claude. Please don't take this so personally. I'm not.

And I'm not trying to discredit you. Geez. I'm just trying to show you the error of your ways.

EDIT: By the way, that lube is extremely flammable and is likely a major fire hazard when used anywhere near a coil - especially one with a EOS switch.

The lube is flamable even when it dries?

Quoted from ALJO

The lube is flamable even when it dries?

I would assume yes, unless it says otherwise. Unless the chemistry changes when it dries, it should still have the flammable property.

Does silicone lube dry?

Right, if an oil 'dries' it no longer works, right? Isn't the whole point of a lube the fact that it doesn't dry?

Quoted from jonny_eh

Right, if an oil 'dries' it no longer works, right? Isn't the whole point of a lube the fact that it doesn't dry?

Then what is "dry lube" ?

Quoted from Azatotht

Then what is "dry lube" ?

I have no idea! I'm so confused  

humm..

Dry lubricants or solid lubricants are materials which despite being in the solid phase, are able to reduce friction between two surfaces sliding against each other without the need for a liquid media. Such lubricants, including materials such as graphite, hexagonal boron nitride, molybdenum disulfide and tungsten disulfide are also able to offer lubrication at temperatures higher than liquid and oil-based lubricants are able to operate. Such materials can operate up to 350°C in oxidising environments and even higher in reducing / non-oxidising environments (molybdenum disulfide up to 1100°C). Their lubricating properties are attributed to a layered structure on the molecular level with weak bonding between layers. Such layers are able to slide relative to each other with minimal applied force, thus giving them their low friction properties.

So i guess the dry lube sprays actually dry after beeing sprayed ... but the other one Aljo is using doesnt seems to be of the right kind.

Quoted from machine.slave

Does silicone lube dry?

Yes, and almost instantly, it's made like as Azatotht says.

To find out if it's flammable, why not test it once it's dry? Spray it on some plastic or metal, wait for it to dry, then make sparks next to it, or even put a flame to it.

Quoted from Azatotht

So i guess the dry lube sprays actually dry after beeing sprayed ... but the other one Aljo is using doesnt seems to be of the right kind.

Yes it is, it dries instantly.
Thare are 2 different silicone lubricants, one is grease and the other is the one that dries instantly like mine.

Quoted from jonny_eh

To find out if it's flammable, why not test it once it's dry? Spray it on some plastic or metal, wait for it to dry, then make sparks next to it, or even put a flame to it.

Will do.

Quoted from ALJO

Yes it is, it dries instantly.
Thare are 2 different silicone lubricants, one is grease and the other is the one that dries instantly like mine.

Thats what a little Google-ing gave me too..

But from what i read, there are 2 kind of cans, the normal silicone one is flammable (like the one in your picture) and the "dry" one is chemically inert... Seems like the "dry" word in very important and should be written on the can..

This is it for my lunch time investigation, someone with more understanding will hopefully chime in

Quoted from ALJO

Yes it is, it dries instantly.
Thare are 2 different silicone lubricants, one is grease and the other is the one that dries instantly like mine.

Sounds like something for youtube...

Quoted from Sparky

Sounds like something for youtube...

Like a,  Before and After, kind of thing?

Sure, I can even do with it my Catacomb, it's not lubricated yet.

Just spitballing here, but I think this "dry" lube that keeps being discussed here is the type that Mbug posted earlier.  It's a graphite powder that acts as a lubricant, and does not require any sort of aerosol propellant for application.  "Dry" lube starts out dry, and finishes dry.  The stuff that Aljo is using should not be considered a "dry" lube, because it is not.

D

You guys are so slick

Quoted from Menace

Just spitballing here

That's a different kind of lube..  

Quoted from ALJO

Like a,  Before and After, kind of thing?

Sure, I can even do with it my Catacomb, it's not lubricated yet.

Put the spray can down and step away from the pinball machine!

Quoted from Menace

Just spitballing here, but I think this "dry" lube that keeps being discussed here is the type that Mbug posted earlier.  It's a graphite powder that acts as a lubricant, and does not require any sort of aerosol propellant for application.  "Dry" lube starts out dry, and finishes dry.  The stuff that Aljo is using should not be considered a "dry" lube, because it is not.

D

Very simple... the lube is not always the problem... the can is.

General propellant used in any spray can:  mixtures of volatile hydrocarbons, typically propane, n-butane and isobutane. Dimethyl ether (DME) and methyl ethyl ether are also used. All these have the disadvantage of being flammable.

and they don't necessarily evaporate instantly...

Quoted from cooke

Put the spray can down and step away from the pinball machine!

I can tell that you want the game "pure" Cory, if you get the game, Right?

Quoted from Menace

Just spitballing here, but I think this "dry" lube that keeps being discussed here is the type that Mbug posted earlier.  It's a graphite powder that acts as a lubricant, and does not require any sort of aerosol propellant for application.  "Dry" lube starts out dry, and finishes dry.  The stuff that Aljo is using should not be considered a "dry" lube, because it is not.

D

OK! What do you suggest then? Picture please, I'm a visual.