So got the Paragon home, looks like I'll be doing more then just a playfield swap.

So I know nothing about old games, absolutley nothing, my knowldge goes as far as, the fuses are good, ok now what?  I'm tyring to follow the Pinrepair guides but I'm not evern really sure where to start.

Where I am at right now, I power the machine on, lights come on, it looks like their is power to the displays as I see a light but they don't come on and that's it.

I powered it on once and the displays came on, I couldn't start a game as a bunch of numbers were all over the displays but I was able to enter into the test and cycle threw some of the tests, then I powered to machine back off and back on again and I'm back where I started.  Not really sure what I should be looking at first.

Ok so some progress, I figured out I need to watch the flashes on the LED.

So I get past the first flash, the second but not the third, so according to the repair guides that means that u8 has a problem and from looking at this board I would have to agree as it is hacked to hell

Quoted from Vengeance

So got the Paragon home, looks like I'll be doing more then just a playfield swap.

So I know nothing about old games, absolutley nothing, my knowldge goes as far as, the fuses are good, ok now what?  I'm tyring to follow the Pinrepair guides but I'm not evern really sure where to start.

Where I am at right now, I power the machine on, lights come on, it looks like their is power to the displays as I see a light but they don't come on and that's it.

I powered it on once and the displays came on, I couldn't start a game as a bunch of numbers were all over the displays but I was able to enter into the test and cycle threw some of the tests, then I powered to machine back off and back on again and I'm back where I started.  Not really sure what I should be looking at first.

Take the backglass off and look at the MPU (top-left board). Turn it on and tell ushow many times do you see the MPU LED flash once the switch is turned on.

For the test switch on the coindoor, pressing it does this (and I am going by memory here...)

1x= lamp test
2x= display test
3x= solenoid test
4x= switch test (if a switch is tripped, the switch number will flash on the displays

other modes are sound test, and replay adjustments and such.

The LED on the MPU will give an indication.

Weak points on old Ballys:

- Molex connectors (get corroded with time)
- power supply bridges (if old, probably tired)
- battery corrosion on the MPU (if there, CUT IT OFF!!!)
- solenoid driver caps dried up if never changed

Quoted from Vengeance

Ok so some progress, I figured out I need to watch the flashes on the LED.

So I get past the first flash, the second but not the third, so according to the repair guides that means that u8 has a problem and from looking at this board I would have to agree as it is hacked to hell

OK... 3 options at this point:

1- fix the MPU yourself
2- send it to someone who can fix them (I always recommend Mindstorm...)
3- get a new one (Alltek, Ultimate MPU... all good)

I would go with 2 or 3 if really hacked.

Yea the U8 socket is really hacked to hell, I'm thinking I'm going to try and repair it myself.


I was reading the pinout from the repair guides:

U8 pin 1 (A3) - U7 pin 20, U6 pin 5
U8 pin 2 (A2) - U7 pin 21, U6 pin 6
U8 pin 3 (A1) - U7 pin 22, U6 pin 7, U11 pin 35
U8 pin 4 (A0) - U7 pin 23, U6 pin 8, U11 pin 36
U8 pin 5 (A5) - U7 pin 18, U6 pin 3
U8 pin 6 (A6) - U7 pin 17, U6 pin 2
U8 pin 7 (A7) - U7 pin 15, U6 pin 1, U11 pin 24
U8 pin 8 - Ground
U8 pin 9   (D10)*- U7 pin 6, U6 pin 14, U11 pin 29
U8 pin 10 (D00)*- U7 pin 6, U6 pin 14, U11 pin 29
U8 pin 11 (D11)@- U7 pin 7, U6 pin 15, U11 pin 28
(* U8 pins 9&10 shorted together)
(@ U8 pins 11&12 shorted together)

U8 pin 12 (D01)@- U7 pin 7, U6 pin 15, U11 pin 28
U8 pin 13 (D12)*- U7 pin 8, U6 pin 16, U11 pin 27
U8 pin 14 (D02)*- U7 pin 8, U6 pin 16, U11 pin 27
U8 pin 15 (D13)#- U7 pin 9, U6 pin 17, U11 pin 26
U8 pin 16 (D03)#- U7 pin 9, U6 pin 17, U11 pin 26
U8 pin 17 (CE2) - Q5 rt upper leg, U9 pin 40, U11 pin 34
U8 pin 18 (OD) - U18 pin 6
U8 pin 19 (CE1) - U17 pin 8
U8 pin 20 (R/W) - U7 pin 16, U11 pin 21, U9 pin 34, U18 pin 7
U8 pin 21 (A4) - U7 pin 19, U6 pin 4, U11 pin 22
U8 pin 22 (Vcc) - C13 left leg, R12 upper leg, CR5 lower leg
(@ U8 pins 11&12 shorted together)
(* U8 pins 13&14 shorted together)
(# U8 pins 15&16 shorted together)

And none of them are toning out correctly.  When I tone out on the pins 1,2 and 3 they are going to the correct place on U6 but not on U7, the jumper wires this guy used seem to be going to the wrong place from what I can tell.  I'm going to remove the ecisting jumpers, re-do the socket for the chip and try and jumper them to the correct places, see if that helps.

Welcome to the nightmare of Bally MPUs.

Best of luck with that.

from the sounds of things these are better then the wiliams ones of the same area as atleast we get the test flashes on the LEDS

Quoted from Vengeance

, the jumper wires this guy used seem to be going to the wrong place from what I can tell.  I'm going to remove the ecisting jumpers, re-do the socket for the chip and try and jumper them to the correct places, see if that helps.

BE CARFULL!,dont start messing with jumpers  unless your sure of what your doing.the jumpers are set to the rom/eprom type you have on you board(U1,U2,U6)you can read the section on jumpers on marvins repair page.If a board isn't jumped properly it will never boot! those old boards are not that hard to fix ....they just take time and......patience
good luck!

Magneto

Ok so correct me if I'm doing this wrong, the way I'm reading the pin outs listed above from marvins page for U8 is this...

Example

U8 Pin 1 is supposed to go to U7 pin 20.  So I took a piece of wire, attached it to the pin from the socket for pin 1 and then attached that wire to the pin associated with ping 20 on the U7 chip.  Is that the correcct way to do it.

Also for clarification, I checked in the manual and and pin one starts on the lower left hand side of the socket so I take that as reading that the pins go like this:

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Is that correct?

NO.  I'll try to find a picture but here's a text description..  Every chip has in indent or mark at one end..  (Some have a depression right at pin 1 too).  If you put the mark or indent facing left, pin 1 is the bottom left pin.  It goes around counter-clockwise. So.


22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12

=|

1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9  10  11


=| is the indent


Also keep in mind all chips are oriented the same way on the board.  So in this example all horizontal chips would have their pin 1 at the bottom left.  

Mike

Quoted from Vengeance

Also for clarification, I checked in the manual and and pin one starts on the lower left hand side of the socket so I take that as reading that the pins go like this:

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Is that correct?

No.

Usually chip pinouts are numbered like this :

24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13
notch
1  2   3    4   5   6   7   8  9  10 11 12

Cheers,
Steph

Quoted from Steph

No.

Usually chip pinouts are numbered like this :

24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13
notch
1  2   3    4   5   6   7   8  9  10 11 12

Cheers,
Steph

You're getting slow in your old age

Mike