I just encountered my first local "pinball lowlife"....
There's person selling a machine locally for $350. So, I reply to them "I'll take it". Seller replies, 10min later, "Oh..you were the first to reply but...Ive got another person offering $500 now, do you want to match it?"
So....if this other buyer exists....I hope you get in a car accident on the way to the sellers house.

It always happens to me... And more then often on lespac.com ... People are going crazy having so many phone calls and then they decide to go and have the price higher...

Best place to find a good machine at a reasonable price is here in my opinion.

You know Greg, sellers are not all like you, good sellers What's the next pinball you're gonna sell me??  

Eric

Quoted from Rider

It always happens to me... And more then often on lespac.com ... People are going crazy having so many phone calls and then they decide to go and have the price higher...

Best place to find a good machine at a reasonable price is here in my opinion.

You know Greg, sellers are not all like you, good sellers What's the next pinball you're gonna sell me??  

Eric

That depends what you want to sell back to me
Tell Pinbot I miss him

I'm going to chime in on this one. First off, I'm not the buyer. Second, I didn't even know about the pin until you posted it, so I have no interest in the outcome at all.

The game was way under priced at $350. I just did a quick search and I'm thinking you are talking about the playboy. Seller realized they were asking too little and are free to change their mind of the asking price. They didn't accept your offer. No foul, in my opinion and the law agrees. Until there is acceptance there is no contract.  

A low life is someone that accepts the price and then changes it after you drive there. That's a pain. At least everything happened in an email, no foul.

BTW, still a good deal at $500. I'd jump on it if it's a title that interests you.

Duane

There are usually only 2 guys in the Ottawa area that do this - offer more than the asking price when it's already "sold"..  These guys are resellers and not collectors so it's how they make money..  Unless you can get it before either of them see the ad then you're not going to find a steal in this area..

The sellers are usually not collectors and why not accept more than what you were asking for your hunk o'junk??

Sucks anyway.

Mike

Quoted from TwilightZone

I'm going to chime in on this one. First off, I'm not the buyer. Second, I didn't even know about the pin until you posted it, so I have no interest in the outcome at all.

The game was way under priced at $350. I just did a quick search and I'm thinking you are talking about the playboy. Seller realized they were asking too little and are free to change their mind of the asking price. They didn't accept your offer. No foul, in my opinion and the law agrees. Until there is acceptance there is no contract.  

A low life is someone that accepts the price and then changes it after you drive there. That's a pain. At least everything happened in an email, no foul.

BTW, still a good deal at $500. I'd jump on it if it's a title that interests you.

Duane

That's a very valid point Duane, thanks!
This was my first run-in with being overbid....on the persons full asking price, no less.....so I got a little annoyed.

But, all's well that ends well.
I emailed them back and said that I'd give them $400, no tire kicking, and pick it up in 30min if they'd tell the second buyer "Its sold".
Well, they said yes, and I just got home from moving it out of their basement and into my van "it always has to be in a basement with tight corners on the stairs, eh?"

The sellers were really nice people, and the game was a gift to the man many years ago.....it was a Regent game before that. The game will take some work to get going 100% (its dirty, the displays are out, and a pop bumper doesnt work...as far as I can tell right now)

Thanks MAACA for giving me a place to vent and tell of my adventures in pinball buying/selling

Now I just have to convince my wife that the dining room IS the perfect place for a Date East Playboy 35th Anniversary Pinball Machine....wish me luck

I'm glad it worked out for you!

Duane

Let me know if you want to get rid of it later... I will give you 500$ for it. I am rebuilding one for my cousin now and I am slowly falling for it. Simple game, but just cool overall.

And if you don't want to sell it, you are welcome to have my home-made stencils if you want to repaint the cabinet.

Rottendog sells and excellent and inexpensive replacement LED display set for this generation of DE (if you need to replace the displays).

Quoted from Hippochrome

Now I just have to convince my wife that the dining room IS the perfect place for a Date East Playboy 35th Anniversary Pinball Machine....

Wow, $400 for a DE PB 35th ?
That's a GREAT price !

It's not high on my "want list" , but for $400, I would have been all over it !  

Nice score...

Cheers,
Steph

Thanks for the kind words! I gave it a little clean-up, and a few games....yeah, I could get into this game!
It's not the quality of a Williams circa 1989, but still fun!

However, it would be more fun if I could see the score
I'm not to familiar with getting these things working...any tips? I checked the fuses and they all "look" good.
Otherwise, theres one hack and burnt looking plastic that could be the culprit...heres some pics:

Plus, when I tire of it I will not try to make money off it....It will be sold on MAACA, for what I paid for it +what it costs to get the displays working, and to collectors only!

some pics

and more

Quoted from Hippochrome

I'm not to familiar with getting these things working...any tips? I checked the fuses and they all "look" good.
Otherwise, theres one hack and burnt looking plastic that could be the culprit...

Could be the hack..  Start by checking the voltages at the display board (download the manual first) and determine if you have the required voltages.  If 1 or more is missing/incorrect, check fuses (with a multimeter!).  If the fuses are good then the power supply has a problem.  Should be easy enough to fix.

If all the voltages are good AT THE DISPLAY BOARD, then that board is probably the problem - assuming the ribbon cable is good and installed correctly.  The display board is most likely repairable too..  I doubt that all 4 display glasses would have failed..

Mike

Quoted from Hippochrome

That's a very valid point Duane, thanks!
This was my first run-in with being overbid....on the persons full asking price, no less.....so I got a little annoyed.

But, all's well that ends well.
I emailed them back and said that I'd give them $400, no tire kicking, and pick it up in 30min if they'd tell the second buyer "Its sold".
Well, they said yes, and I just got home from moving it out of their basement and into my van "it always has to be in a basement with tight corners on the stairs, eh?"

The sellers were really nice people, and the game was a gift to the man many years ago.....it was a Regent game before that. The game will take some work to get going 100% (its dirty, the displays are out, and a pop bumper doesnt work...as far as I can tell right now)

Thanks MAACA for giving me a place to vent and tell of my adventures in pinball buying/selling

Now I just have to convince my wife that the dining room IS the perfect place for a Date East Playboy 35th Anniversary Pinball Machine....wish me luck

I wonder how many people you outbid with your $400 offer.

Good score, you'll be able to sell it for much more than $400 when you get it working!

OK......Jon and I....Mainly Jon, have been trouble shooting with the Playboy.
So, here's what we got so far...Take it away Jonny eh:

no thanks, I don't have room in my basement.

In seriousness here's what I've found, following Clay's guide:
-On the power supply board, at connector CN5, I detect -100 at pin 3, but nothing at pin 4 (should be +100V)?
-I tested R8 and R9 (both 39K Ohm), as instructed by the guide, R9 is a solid 41.9K, and R8 is more unreliable. R8 is sometimes a solid 2M, other times it climbs up and down randomly. Now I figure this means it needs to be replaced, but I wanted to confirm here first.
-Anything else I should test or do? Any tips on doing board work/replacing the resistor?

Thanks, Jonny_eh

If you are making good contacts with the legs or pads of that R8, and the ohm value reading
is all over the place, then that resistor is opened and needs to be replaced (as per your description).

There might be other defective parts on the high voltage part of the board (transistors),
did you check them too ?

Hehe, incidentally, interesting Avatar landing that machine
Congrats !

Cheers,
- Sylvain.

How do you test the transistors?

I should come over - it'd be the "Three Stooges"


http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/#trans

http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/#howdmm

Quoted from Tuborg

I should come over - it'd be the "Three Stooges"

Well, I'm going out to buy the resistor tomorrow, and then test Jon's soldering abilities....your welcome to join in the mayhem.
Remember "Its all fun and games UNTIL someone looses an eye"!

Hey there!

I just sold that same game title for $1100. Mine was in super condition when I sold it. I'd say $400 was a steal - good for you!

I practically rebuilt my whole game. PM me if you run into any other troubles with the game. I also have some spare electrical parts from it ( mostly from the power supply section ). I also have another complete display board ( it's the same display board as Williams Sys 11 ).

Mayfair Amusements had lots of new parts for this game, my personal favourite was the drop and standup target decals, these really made the game look new!

This game was alot of fun, just not a keeper for me, which is wierd because I really like the feel of Data East games.

Dan

PS the +100v issue sounds like the NTE 390 or 391 transistor off the top of my head. One is for the -100v and the other for the +100v. You'll likely have to replace it. Also, do the mods for the display voltage, it supposedly makes the displays last longer. I think it's just a couple of resistors and diodes from memory. READ THE GUIDE!!

Ok so....the guide calls for 1 to 2 watt, 39 kilohm "fire proof" resistor.
My local shop has it, but they said its not "fire proof", its made of porcelain......will this work?
  

Quoted from Bally Boy

PS the +100v issue sounds like the NTE 390 or 391 transistor off the top of my head. One is for the -100v and the other for the +100v. You'll likely have to replace it. Also, do the mods for the display voltage, it supposedly makes the displays last longer. I think it's just a couple of resistors and diodes from memory. READ THE GUIDE!!

Thanks for the help Dan, but are you sure this problem can't be caused by a bad R8? I'll test the transistors when I'm over next time (tonight Greg?)

Where can I find out about these mods you speak of?

Quoted from jonny_eh

Where can I find out about these mods you speak of?

Where else, but Clay's guides:
http://www.pinrepair.com/de/index3.htm#dots

(scroll down quite a ways past the DMD section to the Alpha-Numeric part)

Right on, Doug!

CLAY'S GUIDE!

And if all else fails: http://home.comcast.net/~rottendog/WDP011A.htm

BTW, according to Clay's guide, the R8 is in the +100V section. The fact that R8 is reading bad, and I'm not getting +100V, makes me think that replacing R8 would help. Now, where can I get a flame-proof 39K Ohm 1+ watt resistor?

Quoted from jonny_eh

And if all else fails: http://home.comcast.net/~rottendog/WDP011A.htm

BTW, according to Clay's guide, the R8 is in the +100V section. The fact that R8 is reading bad, and I'm not getting +100V, makes me think that replacing R8 would help. Now, where can I get a flame-proof 39K Ohm 1+ watt resistor?

Not at the Source, Reset, or Active

I think I have many. PM me your address and I'll send you a couple.

Quoted from Hippochrome

Not at the Source, Reset, or Active

What about ADD Electronics (near parkdale)? I can't find their number  

Quoted from Sparky

Let me know if you want to get rid of it later... I will give you 500$ for it.

I'll give you 525,  JUST KIDDING! I don't want it, truly. I only collect the DVD's. To the sellers who play
"telephone auctioneer":....don't be a cheap wuss, put a price on it, and call it a day.

Craig

Before you spend as lot of money check the large resistor 1ook ohm i believe on the power supply , they fail often and you lose one of the voltages , therefore no display. There is one in each circuit just under the +- 100v transistors.

Quoted from Hippochrome

Not at the Source, Reset, or Active

I know Cooke offered, and I might also have some if he doesn't.

I generally get my parts through Newark or Digi-Key.

You can also try: http://www.e-sonic.com | http://www.greatplainselectronics.com | http://www.rpelectronics.com/ | http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ |

I have a few. These are 39k ohm, 1 watt "flameproof" resistors (the package even says so). You need two? They'll be in the mail tomorrow.

Quoted from astillentertainment

Before you spend as lot of money...

And if you're going to spend money at all, you may want to consider the $150 Rottendog display set instead. The LED displays don't use the HV section at all and the only other thing likely wrong with your power supply (other than HV) is the typically burnt GI connectors. No point spending $75 on a new power supply just to realize that most of the glass needs to be replaced as well.

My two cents.

Quoted from cooke

And if you're going to spend money at all, you may want to consider the $150 Rottendog display set instead. The LED displays don't use the HV section at all and the only other thing likely wrong with your power supply (other than HV) is the typically burnt GI connectors. No point spending $75 on a new power supply just to realize that most of the glass needs to be replaced as well.

My two cents.

Hmmmmm...to be considered!
Yeah, I'm hoping its just a resistor problem. Once it gets into power supply situations I agree that LED is the way to go!
Thanks again for all the help and sending me those resistors!

Quoted from astillentertainment

Before you spend as lot of money check the large resistor 1ook ohm i believe on the power supply , they fail often and you lose one of the voltages , therefore no display. There is one in each circuit just under the +- 100v transistors.

Right on Dave!
Jon's on the way and were going to tinker with your suggestion.......to be continued!

Well, how'd the tinkering go?

Quoted from Tuborg

Well, how'd the tinkering go?

Ok, but it seems like it's just that "open" resistor that is the problemo. After we figured that out, we spent the next 3 hours playing Williams Pinball on the Wii......thanks again for getting that for me Medvet, its a real blast!

Quoted from Hippochrome

Ok, but it seems like it's just that "open" resistor that is the problemo. After we figured that out, we spent the next 3 hours playing Williams Pinball on the Wii......thanks again for getting that for me Medvet, its a real blast!

Sorry for demolishing all your high scores  

We can't fix Playboy without that resistor

Quoted from Hippochrome

we spent the next 3 hours playing Williams Pinball on the Wii

Problem with that Wii game is it makes me want to re-create the "real" experience.... particularly Whirlwind!  

Quoted from websherpa

Problem with that Wii game is it makes me want to re-create the "real" experience.... particularly Whirlwind!  

Not with "Jive Time" though..snore fest...
I'm sure they could have picked a better EM than that

Quoted from websherpa

Problem with that Wii game is it makes me want to re-create the "real" experience.... particularly Whirlwind!  

True enough - the Wii has already cost us a Funhouse; and Whirlwind is the kids favorite - and now on our list....

The perfect companion to your new pin: click here

Jonny_eh here at hippochrome's place. Here's the story so far:
Mr Mikeman came by last night and replaced the R8 and R9 resistors. This fixed the missing +100V, but now the -100V is missing for some reason. So Mike replaced the TR4 transistor, which when tested showed a closed circuit between all the leads.He didn't have the exact same transistor for replacement, but had an alternate suggested by Clay, the MJE15031 (on the transistor, it says MJE15031G, is the G significant?). But even with the replaced transistor, there was no voltage at D10, like there was at D9. He didn't have the right diode for replacement, so left for the night.

Tonight, I replaced the D10 diode, and now detected ~-105V at D10 (IIRC), the same as D9 (but negative). At R13, I detected -125V (same as R12, but negative). Unfortunately, the output voltage wasn't -100V as would be expected, it was -89V.

I figured that since we had the right voltages entering the transistor, and the wrong one coming out, it must mean the transistor is broken/wrong. But while testing the voltage at the transistor pins, I accidentally shorted it (with a sparc) and now I no longer get a voltage at either D10 nor any output voltage, just like how Mike left it last night. My guess is that I broke the diode when I did that short.

Where do I go next? Replace the transistor and diode? Give up and get the LEDs? Get a Rottendog board?

Quoted from Hippochrome

Where do I go next? Replace the transistor and diode? Give up and get the LEDs? Get a Rottendog board?

...Sell it to me.  

It is now in my basement! Started tinkering with it a bit. I had to remove the head of of it to get it through the door, and while I did that, I noticed 6 connectors with burned out pins and connector housings, and at least 5 other connectors with loose wires in the connectors. Gotta love the more recent pins that use goddamn IDC connectors. Bloody crap. Well, I changed over 12 connectors with Molex trifurcon connectors... long process, but worth it. I haven't even plugged it in yet, but I can see a couple of transistors fried... no biggie. But before working on the boards, I will revise the entire wiring. If a few connectors came loose, others may later. I want to bullet-proof this pin. Really worth it... playfield is in very good shape. Hopefully more news soon...

Huh? Hippochrome got Sparky to do a shop job? Sweet! I can't wait to play it! "Oooh, playboy"

Quoted from jonny_eh

Huh? Hippochrome got Sparky to do a shop job? Sweet! I can't wait to play it! "Oooh, playboy"

Correction... Hippochrome SOLD it to Sparky.  

Quoted from Sparky

Correction... Hippochrome SOLD it to Sparky.  

And that's a fact, jack!

i bought it from sparky and started fixing it. this thing looks good but needs a lot of repairs the high voltage is shot the displays are shot and someone installed the ram improperly i will let you know how the repair goes
dave

AFAIK, the displays were working at hippochrome's place. Back when it was just the resistor that was busted in the high voltage section, attaching a DMM to the resistor got the displays to turn on, and they seemed to work.

I'd recommend a full rebuild of the high voltage section of the power supply, and go from there.

I wasn't aware that the ramp was installed improperly, nice find.

The game is pretty damn fun, good luck!

sorry not the ramp the ram was installed improperly not allowing it to boot
rebuilt the high voltage and display did not work put a new display in and works fine
anyways everything is fully working now just need to make it look good now that should be the easy part