While installing my winter tires over the week-end,
I ran into a problem with one of the security-lock lug-nuts.
(...these are the ones that need the specially-fitted
adapter to remove )

Unfortunately, the lug-nut was somewhat seized,
so when I applied a bit more pressure,
the nut actually shattered, leaving me with shards
of metal and a half-missing lugnut.

The few tire shops I've called have a 2 week backlog of work
and are scheduling for the 2nd week in December.

I was wondering if anyone had one of the Lug-nut removal kits,
or any advice as to how to get this sucker off.

LMK,
Thanks,
Steph

If it is the nut that is partially broken, one way is to weld a regular nut onto it and get it off. Or:

- use an extractor kit

- break the rest of it off if you can, but you might/will damage the stud

- use a special pair of pliers called stud removers. They look like adjustable pliers but have special jaws that look like a bird's beak. They are curved so that when you push down on them, they bite more. They are made to remove any studs and stripped nuts. You might need to put a pipe on the end for extra torque, but they work. I have a pair... still use them today.



Rules of thumb (useless now, but in case you get it off):

- always tighten/loosen these types of nuts with the wheel and nut at room temperature... they get brittle with the cold

- always apply anti-seize compound to the threads on the wheel studs. JUST A BIT... no need to slather it on. You don't want any to end up between the nut and wheel rim.

samething happened to me a while ago.

had to use a grinder to make the nut gripable.


LESSON LEARNED:  REMOVE THOSE PIECES OF CRAP FROM YOUR TIRES IF YOU ARE USING THEM NOW!!

Quoted from Sparky

If it is the nut that is partially broken, one way is to weld a regular nut onto it and get it off.

I don't have welding gear...

Quoted from Sparky

- use an extractor kit

I would if I could find one locally..
...and they don't look cheap  ($50 on-line)

Quoted from Sparky

- break the rest of it off if you can, but you might/will damage the stud

Messy and dangerous.  I'm really not looking to try this...

Quoted from Sparky

- use a special pair of pliers called stud removers. They look like adjustable pliers but have special jaws that look like a bird's beak. They are curved so that when you push down on them, they bite more. They are made to remove any studs and stripped nuts. You might need to put a pipe on the end for extra torque, but they work. I have a pair... still use them today.

I'm actually driving down to MTL next Saturday.
I can't stay for the "informal" party, but if using your pliers is quick and easy,
I might try to stop by for "quickie"  !  

I'll keep you posted.

Later,
Steph

I would  hammer an old socket over it.then use heat.watch you face with that pipe if using for torque.by doing this i took 5 stiches in the nose when the pipe slipped off.   good luck

Quoted from hardkor

I would  hammer an old socket over it.then use heat.watch you face with that pipe if using for torque.by doing this i took 5 stiches in the nose when the pipe slipped off.

Gee...  sounds like great plan !    

Although I think I prefer something that won't cause any facial lacerations !


Steph

Quoted from Steph

I'm actually driving down to MTL next Saturday.
I can't stay for the "informal" party, but if using your pliers is quick and easy,
I might try to stop by for "quickie"  !  

I'll keep you posted.

Later,
Steph

I can do it if you come by... I can try the pliers, and maybe a little heat with a torch.

The other thing that really kills those wheel locks is over-tightening them. If it was a huge struggle to get them off, they were probably way too tight to start with. Most of the light trucks and passenger cars on the road don't require the wheel nuts to be any more than 100ft/lb tight. Sounds like a lot, but it's not really.

Quoted from Grauwulf

The other thing that really kills those wheel locks is over-tightening them. If it was a huge struggle to get them off, they were probably way too tight to start with. Most of the light trucks and passenger cars on the road don't require the wheel nuts to be any more than 100ft/lb tight. Sounds like a lot, but it's not really.

True... even most garages don't know what the heck a torque wrench is...

I work in a heavy truck shop, not properly tightening the wheels with a torque wrench is *not* an option for us. I had a truck in Friday that one of the front wheels was just about to come off, 3 out of 6 lugnuts were finger tight and the other three weren't much more.  

Back on topic though, the pound the regular socket on the broken locknut usually works well.

When was the last time you saw the oil change/tire kid with anything other than the air powered impact wrench in his hands?

Quoted from MarkToo

When was the last time you saw the oil change/tire kid with anything other than the air powered impact wrench in his hands?

agreed, however... there are extensions used that limit the amount of torque that the gun applies. They are colour coded most of the time.

Quoted from Steph

I would if I could find one locally..
...and they don't look cheap  ($50 on-line)

Have a look at princess auto. they have a nut extractor kit for about 10 bucks. You will need a drill to drill a "pilot" hole in the snapped lug. Can you snap a picture and I can have a look?  I will be in Ottawa this weekend and might have some tools to help ya.

Z.

Quoted from Pharoah007

agreed, however... there are extensions used that limit the amount of torque that the gun applies. They are colour coded most of the time.

Take it from someone who used those years ago... they are crap. All they do is twist at a specific torque, but like any twisted metal spring, it weakens rapidly. My old boss in 1993 got rid of those after customers started complaining that their wheel nuts were loose. He had them checked and they were way off, even after only a few months of use.

Nothing beats taking 2 minutes retorquing with a calibrated torque wrench. For us at my current work, it is an obligation. You don't use your torque wrench, you get warned. You refuse to use your torque wrench, you get canned. It is a safety issue.

Quoted from Pharoah007

Have a look at princess auto. they have a nut extractor kit for about 10 bucks.

Yah, I was thinking of looking there...

Quoted from Pharoah007

Can you snap a picture and I can have a look?  I will be in Ottawa this weekend and might have some tools to

Here ya go !


Steph

OOH that's nasty. Forget the drill and bolt extractor plan as I was backwards. I am used to VW/Audis with lug BOLTS and that is a lug NUT that is cracked. Humm, I am going to have to think about this for a bit.

Off the top of my head, do you have a dermal with some diamond cutting bits (round) ?  That might be small enough to fit in there and cut the bolt off by cutting 2 "channels/slots" on opposing sides of the bolt. Before trying this, I would go to Honda and get a replacement bolt in case you cut into the threads on the existing one. Also, while it sits...go out there and SOAK in in Coke, as in the soda pop. I use coke all the time to free up rust and clean up bolts, this may help it spin off better once you get a proper tool to turn it off. Once you get this sorted out...just use a normal nut vice a security nut. No one needs to steal stock Honda rims, and if they do...I am sure you have insurance.

Keep me updated, I may be down on Thursday of Friday of you need a hand.

P.S. what make and model of Honda is it? can the other end of the lug nut be seen and turned form behind the tire or is the hub/control arm/rotor or whatever stopping you form getting to it?

Crap... I would call Honda and ask them if the studs can be removed easily. And if so, I would drill the mofo with a large enough bit to just get that nut off. Considering you have a 5-bolt pattern, one less stud for a very short time is not that critical.

Update?

Quoted from Pharoah007

Update?

I gave up,  and left the truck at Crappy Tire this morning.
(..we're driving to MTL tomorrow, and this needed to get fixed today...)

It wasn't my first choice, but they said they could remove the nut for $20
and could do it this morning...

I just hope they won't do "too" much damage to the bolt...

I'll keep you posted...

Steph

Quoted from Steph

I just hope they won't do "too" much damage to the bolt...

I'll keep you posted...

Steph

They will... a wheel stud is only 5$. Like I said, they will drill it and break it, then replace the stud. I used to do it on a regular basis when dealing with mag wheels with recessed wheel nuts.

Quoted from Steph

I gave up,  and left the truck at Crappy Tire this morning.

I just hope they won't do "too" much damage to the bolt...

I'll keep you posted...

Steph

I'm impressed...

They got the damn thing off without any collateral damage...

The guy said it took 2 mechanics over 40 minutes with an impact chisel
to pry it off.   ... but they stuck to the original price of $20 for the job.

I'm quite pleased actually...

Here's a small momento of the whole mess....



Steph

so... did you buy a new set?!

Quoted from Mrhide

so... did you buy a new set?!

Hell no !

I simply used the original nut that was replaced by the piece of crap you see above.

The "security" kit is simply 4 locking nuts (one for each wheel) and the appropriate socket.
I still had all the original nuts, so I took the other security nuts off (...while I could...)
and now only have the standard nuts.

[NB.  I've never used the words "nuts" this many times in any text without somekind of innuendo...       ]


Steph