Stripping a CPO
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heinekenlvr
March 12, 2007, 9:33am Report to Moderator

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Hi,

I'm trying to strip my Pole Position CPO. I got some of it off but the reside left behind is quite stubborn. I tried using Goo Be Gone but it had no effect. Anyone have any ideas?? I'm planning on stripping the paint and repainting which leads me to another question what do you guys use to strip paint off metal?

Look forward to any suggestions.

Mike.


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cooke
March 12, 2007, 9:44am Report to Moderator

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Use Goof Off and a scraper to remove the adhesive. Allow the Goof Off to sit for a few minutes and then the adhesive will just scrape away. Be patient. If it's a wooden control panel, it takes a good long time to get it right.

It took me about 4 hours of scraping and scrubbing to remove all of the adhesive on my Robotron CP. I then sanded it down with 100 grit to remove any little bits I had missed and sanded again with 220 grit after that.
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necro_nemesis
March 12, 2007, 9:47am Report to Moderator

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Take it to a sandblaster or glass beader. It will take him about 10 minutes and cost you about $20. Half of that your going to put into stripper.



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heinekenlvr
March 12, 2007, 11:18am Report to Moderator

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Thanks for the ideas. There is a small body shop close by to my house that has an add in the paper that he sand blasts 'small' items. I think I'll give him a try. It'll save a lot of blood sweat and tears. Maybe he can do my coin door at the same time.  

This leads me too my next question, what kind of paint would you guys use once it has been stripped? Tremclad? I assume the bare metal needs to be preimed first??


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Teamatomics
March 12, 2007, 1:26pm Report to Moderator

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I would prime it for sure heinekenlvr, and while you're at the auto shop, if you can get a
can of the black spray that they use to repaint transfer cases and transmissions, that's what I've used, the stuff reeks to high heaven, wear a mask outside even, but It's matched the textures on my Pac panels and coin doors perfectly.

It also sticks and covers well, the home-type brands aren't as tough I've found, and often come too smooth and/or glossy, like good for mailboxes and touching up a wrought iron fence, but the stuff mechanics use is designed to survive under a truck

Just a thought. *addendum* I know the shots aren't close enough to really give an idea of texture, but as example, I didn't prime the coin door, and you could still probably throw nails at it without a nick.




Craig

Craig



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heinekenlvr
March 12, 2007, 2:31pm Report to Moderator

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Wow!

That coin door looks sweet! It looks almost brand new. The before picture of your coin door looks like my coin door. Did you sandblast the door?

I just spoke to a mechanic friend of mine regarding the paint and he said that the Fender Factory here in Ottawa may carry it...


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Teamatomics
March 12, 2007, 8:53pm Report to Moderator

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Thanks hardkor,

she turned out pretty nice! I didn't sandblast actually, I just bought a wire brush attachment thing that fits in the end of my chuckless drill. Then hauled the coin door outside and wire brushed it. Then, after picking a few metal bristles from the brush out of my socks (wear safety glasses!) I taped it up and painted it.

I had more control over the wire brush and drill, and could easily avoid scraping the Midway logo, and it turned out really nicely, I didn't want it to look "perfect" since then the rest of my Ms Pac would look like crap, lol, but at least now it looks appropriately nice, and still a bit "aged"

hope that helps.  


Craig



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